Camping at Deosia Naational Park, Exploring Minimarg, and Trekking to Nanga Parbat Basecamp
The summer that I was leaving Pakistan to move to Europe was emotional for me, just like it is for most people that leave their home to move countries. Even though I grew up in the urban city of Lahore, home, to me, always felt like the mountains of Pakistan. Something else I didn’t want to leave behind was my brother. So I combined those two goodbye’s and wanted to take a trip with him to my ‘home’. It was his first trip to this region of Pakistan (shame, I know). But I want to apologize to him for setting the bar so damn high. This summer marks four years since we took that trip and it is still one of the best ones I have ever done.
A Little Bit About Pakistan
You might know Pakistan as the place where they found Osama bin Laden; I know it as home to the best mountains I have ever seen. Pakistan hosts five of the fourteen eight-thousander peaks in the world. It has rugged landscapes, snow-capped peaks, crystal-clear lakes and the most remote locations possible to disconnect from the world. It’s really not your ordinary vacation; it’s a thrilling escape. And I wanted my brother to experience all of it. From the enchanting Deosai National Park to the hidden gem of Minimarg, and finally, to the footsteps of the mighty Nanga Parbat, the second highest mountain in Pakistan towering at 8126m.
Getting from Lahore to Deosai National Park
Deosai National park is geographically located in the Skardu and Asotre districts of Gilgit-Baltistan. To reach Deosai, the nearest major cities are Skardu and Gilgit, which serve as gateways to the park. Travelers can access the park via a combination of road and air transportation. Skardu and Gilgit both have airports that connect with major cities in Pakistan, allowing for convenient air travel. We had decided to make the journey by road because there is a high chance of cancellation for these flights, and in the past, mine always got canceled. We started from Lahore and the first leg of our journey was from Lahore to Rawalpindi on public transport. From Rawalpindi, it is fairly easy to rent a car to drive further up North. I usually start feeling the excitement as soon as we drive out of the city, the urban sprawl slowly changing to green valleys and then rugged mountains.
Note: Car rentals without a driver in Pakistan are not a thing, you’re paying for the service of the driver as well.
We made a pitstop in Naran to stretch our legs and get some rest for a few hours before continuing onwards to Astore. Along the way from Naran, you’ll cross the Babusar Pass, which sits at a staggering altitude of 4,173 meters above sea level. Remember to stop there for some pakoras.
Some 18 hours later, we finally made it to Astore. You might remember from the previous article, that I don’t have very fond memories of Astore. Staying consistent with my previous experience, our car broke down right before Astore and we hitchhiked the way forward and got another jeep to take us to Chillam, – the checkpost right before Deosai.
Not the perfect start to my trip of a lifetime, and definitely not inspiring any confidence in my baby brother.
Deosai National Park
- Altitude: Deosai National Park is located at an altitude ranging from 3,500 meters to 5,200 meters above sea level.
- Size: The park covers an expansive area of approximately 3,000 square kilometers.
- When to go: The best time to visit Deosai National Park is during the summer months, from late June to early September, when the plains are accessible due to the melting of snow. The weather is more pleasant and wildlife is abundant during this period.
- Days required: A typical visit can range from 2 to 4 days, depending on your interests and activities.
- Accommodation: Accommodation options within the park are limited. Camping is a popular option, but you should be prepared for primitive camping conditions.
- Wifi/signal availability: Deosai National Park is remote and lacks consistent mobile network coverage.
The Deosai Plains are the second highest altitude plateau in the world. Deosai is the combination of two words in the local Balti language: ‘Deo’ (giant) and ‘Sai’ (shadow), it was so named because for a long time it was believed that the place was haunted by giants. And when you visit it, you understand why. Vast, treeless plains stretched endlessly in all directions, a silence that is almost deafening punctuated only by the sounds of wind, or the occasional marmot in the distance.
There are a few designated camping grounds, the more popular ones are Sheosar Lake and Bara Pani (translating literally to ‘big water’). Though you can ‘technically’ camp in other areas, I would recommend not to. It’s good to stick around other campers because my smart ass didn’t the last time I visited Desoai and had a very close encounter with a brown bear – but that’s a story for another time.
We chose Sheosar Lake. On a clear day, you can catch a glimpse of Nanga Parbat in the distance. We set up our tent, (by we I mean me), and spent the rest of the day lazing in the meadows, watching birds, swimming in Sheosar lake, eating pakoras and drinking chai.
I’m a hardcore morning person so it might surprise people when I say this; Deosai at night is even more magical. Thousands of asteroids across the sky in every direction. The silence in the plains and the warmth of the campfire, it’s all it took for me to forget about the car shitshow in Astore.
Next leg of the journey to Minimarg
Two blissful nights at Deosai, and now we were off to Minimarg to recover for the next couple of days before our trek. The journey from Deosai to Minimarg covers a distance of approximately 100 kilometers. As we left Deosai behind, we started to descend to lower altitudes, and the landscape transitioned from high-altitude plateaus to lush green valleys. And of course, it was time for a new shitshow.
Shitshow 1 was that it was monsoon season and locals said we might not make it to Minimarg.
Shit show 2 was that even if we did make it, we didn’t have a booking confirmation at the accommodation in Minimarg. More on that later.
While travelling between Astore Chilam Chowki and Minimarg, you have to cross a pass called Burzil Pass. It’s one of the highest passes (4100m). The pass used to be the old caravan route between Gilgit and Kashmir till the independence of Pakistan. The area across the pass remains disconnected from the rest of the world for 7-8 months each year due to the heavy snowfall and only becomes accessible from June to September or October due to heavy snowfall.
Minimarg
- Altitude: Minimarg is located at an altitude of approximately 2,844 meters (9,331 feet) above sea level in Pakistan.
- Size: Minimarg is a small village and the surrounding area is relatively compact, with a limited population and infrastructure.
- When to go: The best time to visit Minimarg is during the summer months, from late May to early September. During this period, the weather is relatively mild, and the roads are more accessible due to snowmelt.
- Days required: A typical visit to Minimarg would require at least 2-3 days to explore the village and its surroundings.
- Permits: Travelers require a permit to visit Minimarg, especially if they plan to venture further into the restricted border areas. Foreigners are not allowed to cross the chekpost into Minimarg due to security reasons.
- Accommodation: Accommodation needs to be prebooked at the army mess and there is very limited availability. The accommodation itself is as luxurious as it can get in the remote areas of Pakistan.
- Wifi/signal availability: Minimarg and its surrounding areas may have limited or no access to wifi, and mobile phone signal coverage can be erratic. Travelers should be prepared for a lack of connectivity and plan accordingly.
Back to shitshow 2; Minimarg valley has been the hardest place for me to get to in Pakistan. For security reasons and due to the proximity of Minimarg to the sensitive Indian border, it’s not a big tourist attraction as civilians are usually not given permission to visit it. It’s an area occupied by the Pakistani army and after three years of reaching out to every single army contact I could get my hands on and after countless rejections, I was able to book us a room at the army mess at Minimarg for two nights. Our dates changed and they had not yet confirmed that the accommodation was available on the new dates. Worth a shot, I thought. We might only be able to stay just one night but my itch to visit this place has been in me for so long, and remember – this was potentially my last shot. It’s not often that things fall into place especially when traveling in Pakistan – you always have to be prepared for changes in the plan due to weather or road conditions – this trip though it was like the mountains knew I had to say my goodbye 😉 We managed to stay both nights and despite the infuriating bureaucratic processes, our days at Minimarg make the effort well worth it, offering a glimpse into a corner of Pakistan that only rich army brats get to visit. I am happy to join the league.
As you drive to Minimarg, the disparity between the villages before the army control are apparent. You travel from extreme poverty to an area that has cafe’s, polo grounds and all the amenities that are generally lacking in most areas of Northern Pakistan.
Once having crossed the Minimarg check post, the journey towards Domail is one of the most beautiful ones I have ever seen. Towering trees lining the road on both sides. In Domail, there are two lakes that popular, Rainbow Lake (named because of it\’s changing colour) and Crystal Lake (living up to it\’s name with crystal-clear water), both are an easy walk.
Minimarg to Nanga Parbat
After recovering from our journey and enjoying the privilege of room service in Minimarg, the most exciting, and physically strenuous leg of our trip. We were planning to hike to Rupal face, the south-side of Nanga Parbat. The perfect way to see the ‘Killer Mountain’ up and close.
Southside Trek
- Trek Days: We did the trek in 3 days but it’s advisable to split it over 4 days. Read here!
- Trek Distance: The trek is a total distance of 26km.
- Altitude: The trek starts at an altitude of around 2900m and goes up to 3530m
- When to go: The best time to undertake the Rupal Face Nanga Parbat Base Camp Trek is during the summer months from May to July. This period offers the most favorable wether conditions with milder temperatures and no snow on the trail.
- Guide: It is highly recommended to hire a local trekking guide or join an organized trekking group for the trek. Guides are familiar with the terrain and can provide valuable safety and navigation assistance.
- Accommodation: All days are camping in tents. If you prefer more facilities it’s better to gon on the Raikot or Fairy Meadows side.
- WiFi/Signal availability. Internet and mobile signal availability can be limited or nonexistent along most parts of the trek.
Nanga Parbat, the second highest mountain in Pakistan stands tall as one of the most awe-inspiring peaks in the world. Tucked away in the mesmerizing Himalayan range of Pakistan, the trek to the Nanga Parbat Base Camp through the enchanting Rupal Valley was one of my favourite treks that I have done in Pakistan. We made our way from Astore to the village of Tarashing which was our first campsite. Two other friends of mine were joining me for this trip, and she came bearing home cooked kebabs and minced meat for us to enjoy with our bonfire as we camped under the stars.
The next morning we made our way from Tarashing to Herligkoffer Base Camp at (3550m). The views of Nanga Parbat become increasingly dramatic as you reach the campsite. An easy way for me to know how much I like a hike is that the best ones make me cry – in a good way. I cry easily, ok. I’m not sure if I was overwhelmed by the views or if it was dawning on me that this was the last time I would see the mountains of Pakistan in a long time, whatever it was, it was enough to get the waterworks flowing.
The trail from Herligofer to Latboah was a bit more challenging, as you gain altitude and navigate rocky terrain. This campsite is strategically located for trekkers aiming to ascend Nanga Parbat. The towering peak feels tantalizingly close, inspiring a sense of reverence for the mountain.
The next day was our last day in the mountains, we made it all the way back to Tarashing and onwards to Lahore. The 10 days I spent in the mountains was the sibling bonding experience that I wanted, it was also one of my best times spent in the North of Pakistan. A week after this trip, Sym left for Canada, me for Hungary.
Four years have passed since we did that trip. Since then, I haven’t gotten a chance to travel alone with my brother. Last month, he flew to meet me in Berlin as we went on another trip around Europe. Stay tuned to find out how that ranks! 😊