Ninh Binh looks like a dream in photosโjagged limestone cliffs, glassy rivers, temples tucked inside caves. But what those photos donโt show are the tour buses, the crowds, and the slightly crushed expectation that comes with arriving just a bit too late in the day.
We spent two days here after a month in Hanoi, hoping for a reset. It was worth itโbut only because we were ruthless with our timing. The last boat out. The first climb up. Skipping things everyone says not to miss, and lingering longer in places no one was photographing.
If youโre heading to Ninh Binh and want to see the good stuff without feeling like youโre on a school field trip, hereโs what actually worked.
Where is Ninh Binh?
Ninh Binh is about two hours south of Hanoi, making it one of the easiest escapes from the capital. When people talk about Ninh Binh, they usually mean the whole provinceโnot the city itself. The city doesnโt have much to offer travelers, but the surrounding countryside is where youโll find the limestone peaks, rivers, and rice paddies that have earned it UNESCO World Heritage status.
Most travelers base themselves in either Tam Coc or Trang An. Tam Coc is the busier hub with restaurants, bars, and plenty of other travelers around. Trang An, on the other hand, is quieter and spread out, surrounded by rice fields and rivers. After the chaos of Hanoi (see my 3 Day Hanoi Itinerary if youโre starting there), we picked Trang An for some peace and quiet, and it turned out to be exactly the break we needed.
1. Take the Trang An Boat Tour
If you only do one thing in Ninh Binh, make it this. But pleaseโfor the love of your sanityโdonโt do it at peak hours. We took the last boat out just before sunset, and it was perfect: no crowds, golden light, and the kind of eerie stillness that made the whole place feel like a movie set.
Trang An is what people think theyโre signing up for when they book the more popular Tam Coc boat ride, but without the vendors harassing you mid-river. Instead, you float through caves, past towering cliffs, and stop at tucked-away temples that look straight out of a kung fu film.
There are three different boat routes to choose from, each winding through the UNESCO-listed Trang An Landscape Complex, with its limestone peaks, hidden caves, and temple stops along the way. Ask your homestay or the ticket counter which one is least crowded that day.
We shared our boat with a lovely Vietnamese couple and a rower who narrated our journey with quiet enthusiasm (we understood about 10% and loved it anyway). And just a heads-up: itโs polite – and honestly decent – to help row. The paddles are there for a reason.
Timing tip: Go first thing in the morning or last thing in the afternoon. Avoid late morning and early afternoon when the day-trippers from Hanoi roll in.
Cost: 250k VND per person
Time needed: 2โ3 hoursDistance from Trang An: 0 km (itโs right there!)
Distance from Tam Coc: ~7 km (20 minutes by car)
2. Climbing to the Mua Cave Viewpoint
If thereโs one place in Ninh Binh you need to visit early, itโs this one. We got there by 7 AM and had the place nearly to ourselvesโjust soft morning light, quiet trails, and a nearly empty staircase.
By the time we started climbing down at 9 AM, the experience flipped. Tour buses from Hanoi had arrived, the steps were packed, and the peacefulness vanished in a blur of matching hats and megaphones. This place changes fast, and timing really does make or break it.
The climb itself isnโt badโabout 500 uneven stone stepsโand the view at the top is wide and cinematic: rice paddies stretching into the distance, Trang Anโs boats winding below, and limestone peaks as far as you can see.
Honestly? The view didnโt blow me awayโprobably because Iโd seen it on Instagram too many times. But the area at the base? Loved it. Lily ponds, bamboo bridges, and a few cozy cafรฉs where you can sit by the lake with a drink post-hike. Itโs a vibe.
Timing tip: Go first thing in the morning or last thing in the afternoon. Avoid late morning and early afternoon when the day-trippers from Hanoi roll in.
Cost: 250k VND per person
Time needed: 2โ3 hoursDistance from Trang An: 0 km (itโs right there!)
Distance from Tam Coc: ~7 km (20 minutes by car)
2. Climb to the Dragon at Hang Mรบa Viewpoint
If thereโs one place in Ninh Binh you need to visit early, itโs this one. We got there by 7 AM and had the place nearly to ourselvesโjust soft morning light, quiet trails, and a nearly empty staircase.
By the time we started climbing down at 9 AM, the experience flipped. Tour buses from Hanoi had arrived, the steps were packed, and the peacefulness vanished in a blur of matching hats and megaphones. This place changes fast, and timing really does make or break it.
The climb itself isnโt badโabout 500 uneven stone stepsโand the view at the top is wide and cinematic: rice paddies stretching into the distance, Trang Anโs boats winding below, and limestone peaks as far as you can see.
Honestly? The view didnโt blow me awayโprobably because Iโd seen it on Instagram too many times. But the area at the base? Loved it. Lily ponds, bamboo bridges, and a few cozy cafรฉs where you can sit by the lake with a drink post-hike. Itโs a vibe.
Cost: 100k VND
Time Needed: 1.5โ2 hours
Opening Hours: 5 AM โ 7 PM
Distance from Trang An: ~5 km (15 minutes by car)
Distance from Tam Coc: ~4 km (10 minutes by car)

3. Pedal Through Ninh Binhโs Countryside
Even though Iโm not the most confident cyclist, I couldnโt resist exploring Ninh Binh by bikeโand Iโm so glad I did. Most accommodations offer free bicycles, which is a nice perk if youโre on a budget. No need to plan a route or follow Google Mapsโjust hop on and ride wherever the rice fields and karsts take you.
The scenery is gorgeous in that low-key, lived-in way. Youโll pass by water buffalo grazing in the distance, kids cycling home from school, and stretches of road where itโs just you, the fields, and the mountains. Some paths are smooth; others are gravel and potholes, so expect a bumpy ride. Itโs nothing wild, but youโll want to keep an eye out.
If you head out close to golden hour, youโll catch some of the most beautiful light of the dayโbut be warned: these smaller roads arenโt well-lit. If youโre not comfortable riding in the dark, make sure to head back before sunset or carry a torch.
Honestly, this was the most peaceful part of our tripโand the easiest way to get a feel for daily life outside the tourist spots.
Cost: Usually free at most accommodations
Time Needed: 2โ3 hours
5. Step Back in Time at Hoa Lu Ancient Capital
Hoa Lu is one of Ninh Binhโs busiest tourist sites during the day, but visiting after dark completely changes the vibe. The lantern-lit pagodas and quiet courtyards feel almost magical, and instead of tour groups, youโll find a lively night market with food stalls and locals out for the evening. Itโs still touristy, but at night it feels far more relaxed and atmospheric.
Cost: 20kโ30k VND
Time Needed: 1โ2 hours
Distance from Trang An: ~8 km (15 minutes by car)
Distance from Tam Coc: ~12 km (20 minutes by car)

6. Embrace the Slow Life
Ninh Binh isnโt just about checking sights off a list. If youโve come straight from the chaos of Hanoi, this is your chance to pause. Spend a day doing very little – cycling through the rice fields, sitting by the river, or simply staring at the karsts from your homestay balcony. Itโs not wasted time. In fact, slowing down here might be what you remember most.
7. Climb Up to the Cave at Bich Dong Pagoda
Bich Dong Pagoda is an easy bike ride from both Tam Coc and Trang An, and far less crowded than other temples in Ninh Binh. Built into a limestone mountain, it has three levelsโhigh, middle, and low. The middle one is tucked inside a cave, which was home to a colony of bats when we visited. Between the Chinese-style architecture and the stone bridge at the entrance, itโs a peaceful spot worth the short detour.
Cost: Free
Time Needed: ~1 hour
Distance from Trang An: ~4 km (10 minutes by bike)
Distance from Tam Coc: ~3 km (5โ10 minutes by bike)
8. Wander Through Tam Cocโs Bustling Streets
Tam Coc is Ninh Binhโs lively hub. The main street is lined with restaurants, cafรฉs, and bars serving everything from Vietnamese to Indian and Mexican food. Itโs where youโll find ATMs, pharmacies, and most of the nightlife in the area. Spend an hour or two wandering around the lake, grabbing a smoothie, or just people-watching from a cafรฉ. If Trang An is for peace, Tam Coc is for energy.
Time Needed: 1โ2 hours
Distance from Trang An: ~7 km (15 minutes by car)
Distance from Tam Coc: Youโre already there
9. Take a Stroll Around Am Tien Lake
Am Tien Lake feels a little more off-the-beaten-path than most spots in Ninh Binh. Surrounded by karsts and small pagodas, itโs quiet and peacefulโa good place for a slow walk or a quick break from the busier sights. Thereโs a short tunnel cut into the rock and a stone bridge that makes for a nice photo stop. The water isnโt the clearest, but the setting more than makes up for it.
Cost: 20k VND entrance, 5k VND for bike parking
Time Needed: ~1 hour
Distance from Trang An: ~7 km (15โ20 minutes by bike)
Distance from Tam Coc: ~10 km (20 minutes by bike)
10. Step Into Nature at Thai Vi Temple
Thai Vi Temple itself is small and unassuming, but getting there is half the charm. The ride or walk takes you through rice fields and rivers, and the temple is tucked into a quiet spot at the end. Built in the 13th century, itโs not as grand as other temples in Vietnam, but the peaceful setting makes it worth the visit. Wander past the temple to the pier behind it for some extra-serene views.
Cost: Free
Time Needed: 45 minutesโ1 hour
Distance from Trang An: ~5 km (10 minutes by bike)
Distance from Tam Coc: ~3 km (5 minutes by bike)
11. Explore Vietnamโs Largest Pagoda at Bai Dinh
Bai Dinh Pagoda is enormousโVietnamโs largest, in factโand walking through it feels more like exploring a temple city than a single site. With giant Buddhas, endless stone corridors lined with statues, and sweeping views of the surrounding hills, itโs impressive even if youโre not particularly spiritual. Yes, itโs touristy, but the sheer scale makes it worth the trip.
Cost: Free
Time Needed: 1.5โ2 hours
Distance from Trang An: ~12 km (20 minutes by car)
Distance from Tam Coc: ~20 km (30 minutes by car)
12. Drift Through Van Long Nature Reserve
We skipped Van Long during our trip, but in hindsight I wish we hadnโt. Itโs a quieter alternative to Trang An or Tam Coc, with boat rides that take you through wetlands, past karsts, and (if youโre lucky) into view of rare Delacourโs langurs and plenty of birdlife. Even if youโre not into birdwatching, the stillness of the place is its own kind of reward.
Cost: Varies depending on the boat ride
Time Needed: 2โ3 hours
Distance from Trang An: ~20 km (30 minutes by car)
Distance from Tam Coc: ~25 km (40 minutes by car)
13. Trekking Through Cuc Phuong National Park
Cuc Phuong is Vietnamโs oldest national park and a great option if youโre craving jungle over karsts. Itโs about an hour outside Ninh Binh, so it takes a little commitment, but the hiking trails range from easy walks to all-day treks. Wildlife spotting is hit or miss, but the dense forest, limestone mountains, and sense of scale make it worth the journey.
Cost: 60k VND entrance
Time Needed: At least half a day
Distance from Trang An: ~40 km (1 hour by car)
Distance from Tam Coc: ~45 km (1 hour by car)
So Where Should You Stay? Trang An vs Tam Coc
When people talk about โstaying in Ninh Binh,โ they usually mean either Tam Coc or Trang An. On paper, both are great bases for exploringโbut the vibe is very different.
Tam Coc is the obvious choice for most travelers. Itโs lively, convenient, and everything you needโrestaurants, cafรฉs, bars, even pharmaciesโis on the main street. Itโs also where the Tam Coc boat tours depart, so you could just roll out of your homestay and hop on a boat. But honestly? I found Tam Coc too crowded and touristy. After a month in Hanoi, the last thing I wanted was another noisy hub.
Thatโs why we picked Trang An, and I couldnโt have been happier with that choice. Itโs quieter, more spread out, and the scenery feels endlessโrivers winding through rice fields, cliffs towering above, the kind of place where the mornings are actually peaceful. Itโs also where the Trang An boat tours start, which I thought were the highlight of Ninh Binh.
We stayed at Green Mountain Homestay, tucked right into the landscape, and it ended up being one of my favorite stays in Vietnam. Waking up there felt like a resetโbirds instead of motorbikes, greenery instead of concrete.
So, if youโre looking for nightlife and convenience, Tam Coc delivers. But if you want Ninh Binh at its most beautiful and calming, go with Trang An. For me, it was the perfect escape.
Best Time to Visit Ninh Binh
We visited Ninh Binh right after Typhoon Yagi hit in the middle of monsoon season. Not ideal timing, but somehow we got lucky with a break in the rain. I had actually canceled my Ninh Binh plans three times before finally making it hereโso if thereโs one thing I learned, itโs that timing really matters.
The best months to visit are from November to April, when itโs cooler and dry. If you want to see the rice fields glowing green, aim for May to Julyโjust avoid peak monsoon if you can. Heavy rains can flood paths, make cycling difficult, and sometimes even cancel boat tours.
That said, even in โbadโ weather, Ninh Binh still has a certain charm. Just donโt be like me and tempt fate with typhoon season.
Should You Plan a Day Trip from Hanoi to Ninh Binh?
Plenty of people do Ninh Binh as a day trip from Hanoiโand technically, it works. Itโs only about two hours away, so you can squeeze in a boat ride and maybe one other site before heading back. But honestly? I donโt think it does the place justice.
We stayed for two nights (three days), and even that felt short. The beauty of Ninh Binh isnโt just in ticking off sightsโitโs in slowing down enough to enjoy them without being herded around in a crowd. A day trip means youโll spend nearly as much time on the road as you will actually exploring.
If your schedule is tight, sure, book a day trip. But if you can, Iโd recommend cutting a night elsewhere and giving Ninh Binh at least one or two nights. Itโs worth it.
If you only have one day, Iโd suggest booking a guided tour from Hanoi like this one. Itโll save you the hassle of transport and maximize your time.
Getting from Hanoi to Ninh Binh
There are several ways to get from Hanoi to Ninh Binh, and which one you choose really depends on your budget and travel style:
By Bus
The easiest and most popular option. We booked a luxury limousine bus (which in Vietnam usually means a plush minivan with big seats) and it was honestly the most comfortable ride Iโve had in Southeast Asia. For about $10, you can get hotel pick-up in Hanoi and be dropped right at your accommodation in Ninh Binh. Super convenient. You can check schedules and book online via 12GoAsia.
By Train
A slower but scenic option. The journey takes about 2.5 hours, with views of Vietnamโs countryside along the way. The train drops you in Ninh Binh city, so youโll need a taxi or Grab to get to Tam Coc or Trang An.
By Private Car or Motorbike
If you want full flexibility, a private car is the most stress-free way. Itโs door-to-door and gives you the freedom to stop along the way. Motorbikes, on the other hand, are more adventurous. The drive is about 2.5โ3 hours, but traffic around Hanoi can be chaotic, so this oneโs best if youโre already comfortable riding in Vietnam.
Do you want me to move straight into โHow to Get Around Ninh Binhโ (since that naturally follows), or pause here?
How to Get Around Ninh Binh
Getting around Ninh Binh is pretty simple once youโre there. Most homestays and guesthouses will hand you a free bicycle, which is perfect for short trips to pagodas, lakes, and rice fields. Just be prepared for a few bumpy gravel roads โ it adds to the adventure.
If you want to go further (say from Trang An to Bai Dinh Pagoda), a motorbike is the most practical choice. Rentals are easy to find and usually cost just a few dollars per day.
Not into driving? Grab (Vietnamโs version of Uber) works here too, though it can take a little longer for drivers to show up compared to Hanoi. I used it a couple of times and never had an issue.
Basically:
- Bike โ best for nearby sights and countryside rides
- Motorbike โ best for covering more distance on your own schedule
- Grab or taxi โ best if you donโt want to drive at all
Beyond Ninh Binh: More Vietnam Travel Inspiration
Ninh Binh might not be the hidden gem it once was, but itโs still a refreshing escape from the chaos of Hanoi and the busyness of other tourist hubs. Whether youโre rowing through caves, cycling past rice fields, or climbing up to dragon viewpoints at sunrise, itโs a place that feels both dramatic and grounded in everyday countryside life.
If youโre planning a longer Vietnam itinerary, Ninh Binh fits in perfectly alongside other highlights. Pair a couple of days here with a few days in Hanoiโs old quarter, then work your way down the coast to Hoi Anโs lantern nights and the golden sands of Da Nang. For something a little more offbeat, the scenic route from Da Nang to Hue is one of the most beautiful drives in the country.And if youโre still in the planning phase, my two-week Vietnam travel itinerary is a good place to start.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are there ATMs in Tam Coc and Trang An?
Yes, but theyโre limited. Tam Coc has two ATMs โ one at BIDV bank on the main street and another outside the Ninh Binh Hidden Charm hotel. Trang An has one at the visitor center. Still, Iโd recommend carrying some cash since machines sometimes run dry.
How to go from Ninh Binh to Tam Coc?
Itโs super easy – Grab is the most convenient, but cycling is a nice option if you want to enjoy the countryside. If youโre already in Trang An, itโs just a 15-minute ride by bike or motorbike.
Which should I pick, Ha Long Bay vs Ninh Binh?
I skipped Ha Long Bay because every review I read mentioned how crowded it was. Ninh Binh gave me the landscapes I wanted, but without the chaos. If you have time, you can always do both, but if youโre choosing one, Iโd lean Ninh Binh for the quieter vibe.
Is Ninh Binh city worth visiting?
Not really. The city itself doesnโt have much to offer. The real draw is the countryside and villages around Tam Coc and Trang An – thatโs where youโll find the landscapes and experiences that make Ninh Binh special.
