Nestled in the remote reaches of the Hindu Kush mountain range, Kalash Desh (also known as the three Kalash Valleys) feels like stepping into a forgotten world where time flows a little differently. Their unique culture, with its vibrant festivals and ancient ritual is a vivid tapestry woven over millennia.
The Three Kalash Valleys
Kalash Valley is divided into three main valleys: Birir, Rumbur, and Bumburet, each with its own unique charm and character.
- Bumburet Valley – Bumburet is the most populous valley. It’s the easiest to reach and has the best facilities for visitors. Despite its development, Bumburet village hasn’t lost its cultural essence. The valley is dotted with charming guesthouses and small shops selling local handicrafts. It’s a great starting point for those new to the Kalash Valleys, offering a mix of comfort and cultural immersion.
Where to Stay: Kalash House, Kalash Galaxy, Kalash View - Rumbur Valley – Rumbur has smaller villages and is less popular with tourists but more authentic. It’s known for its lush greenery and serene environment. The valley is famous for its picturesque landscapes, with crystal-clear streams running through verdant fields. Rumbur is an excellent spot for hiking and nature walks.
Where to Stay: Kalash Home Guest House, Kalash Indigenous Guesthouse - Birir Valley – Birir is the least developed valley but the most traditional of the Kalash Valleys. Walking through Birir, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time. The valley is less developed, giving it a raw, untouched beauty. The Kalasha people here are incredibly welcoming, and it’s a fantastic place to experience their traditional lifestyle up close. You’ll see ancient wooden houses perched on steep slopes, surrounded by terraced fields and orchards.
The Kalasha People and Culture
As soon as you step into the Kalash Valleys, you’re transported to a world bursting with color, tradition and a sense of timelessness. The Kalash people, with their distinct features and vibrant attire have origins that are shrouded in mystery. Some believe they are the descendants of Alexander the Great’s army, while others suggest they’ve lived in this region for millenia and descend from Indo Aryan tribes, which migrated to this part of the world over two thousand years ago.
Their unique lineage is reflected in their customs, language, and even their physical features, which set them apart from other ethnic minority groups in Pakistan. For one, the Kalash people are not Muslim, their ancient culture and tradition predates Islam by centuries. Some scholars believe Kalasha practices have links to ancient Hinduism. The Kalash are polytheistic, worshipping a pantheon of gods and spirits. Their spiritual practices are deeply rooted in their daily lives, with rituals and ceremonies marking every significant event. The Kalasha perform various rituals to honor these deities, including animal sacrifices, offerings of food and wine, and communal prayers. These rituals are integral to their identity and help to maintain the social fabric of their community. Unfortunately, the unique culture is diminishing with some non-Kalasha people moving into the valleys.
The Kalasha language, part of the Dardic group of the Indo-Iranian languages, is rich and melodic. It is distinct from the languages spoken by their neighbors, and despite the influence of neighboring cultures and the passage of time, the Kalasha have managed to preserve their language, which is an integral part of their cultural heritage.
The Kalash society is organized into clans, each with its own distinct identity and traditions. The social structure is relatively egalitarian, with decisions made through consensus rather than hierarchical authority. This communal approach to life is reflected in their strong sense of community and mutual support.
Women in Kalash society enjoy a degree of freedom and respect that is uncommon in the region. They participate actively in social and economic activities, and their opinions are valued in decision-making processes. This progressive attitude towards gender roles is another aspect that sets the Kalash apart from their neighbors.
Getting There
Kalash lies in the Chitral District of Pakistan. Reaching Kalasha Valley is part of the adventure, whether you fly or drive. Here’s a rundown to help you plan.
By Air
For international tourists, the fastest way is to fly to Islamabad and then catch a flight to Chitral with PIA. It takes about an hour and offers stunning views of the Hindu Kush. Just keep an eye on the weather as flights can get canceled.
By Road
If you’re up for a road trip, here’s what you need to know:
- Islamabad to Dir:
Distance: Around 350 km
Time: 8-10 hours
Route: M1 Motorway to Mardan, then N45 to Dir
- Dir to Chitral:
Distance: About 120 km
Time: 4-6 hours
Route: Through the Lowari Tunnel, which is usually open year-round.
- Chitral to Kalash Valley
Distance: 30-40 km depending on the valley (Bumburet, Rumbur, or Birir)
Time: 2-3 hours on narrow, winding roads
Follow signs from Chitral to the valleys. Bumburet is the easiest to access, while Rumbur and Birir are more off-the-beaten-path.
By Public Transport
Chitral is the starting point for getting to the Kalasha Valleys. Direct Jeeps from Chitral to the three different valleys leave around 13:00 from the center of Chitral. If you don’t want to travel during the middle of the day, there are shared cars going to the valleys in the early morning and late afternoon. From Ayun, shared cars and Jeeps go to the different valleys once full.
What to Do in the Kalash Valleys
Local Festivals
There are several festivals throughout the year. During these festivals, women wear elaborately embroidered black robes adorned with colorfoul beads and cowrie shells, while men sport similar traditional attire. The traditional headdress, called “shushut,” worn by Kalasha women, is particularly striking and is a symbol of their rich cultural heritage. The festivals involve traditional dances, folk songs and feasting. Coordinate your trip with one of the three annual festivals:
- Chilam Joshi: Celebrated in May, this spring festival marks the end of the harsh winter and the arrival of spring.
- Uchau: Held in autumn, Uchau is a harvest festival. The Kalash gather to thank their gods for the bountiful harvest and to pray for prosperity in the coming year.
- Choimus: This winter festival is perhaps the most important in the Kalash calendar. It involves elaborate rituals to purify the valley and to welcome the new year. The celebrations include torchlight processions, bonfires, and the sacrifice of goats.
Kalasha Dur Museum
Kalasha Dur Museum in Bamborait Valley was established in 2005, it is locally run and a great place to learn more about history and culture of the region. The museum showcases rare artifacts and statues from the Gandhara Civilization.
Find a Local Tour Guide
There’s no better way to learn about the valleys than with a local guide! UNESCO recently trained a group of Kalash tour guides to encourage responsible tourism in the region.
Hike at the foot of the Hindu Kush mountains
If you have more time, you can disover things to do in Chitral and other hikes in the Hindu Kush mountain range.
Try Traditional Kalash Dishes
- Tsiri: A hearty dish made from dried mulberries, walnuts, and wheat, perfect for a filling meal after a day of exploring.
- Tiki: These delicious flatbreads are often served with fresh yogurt and honey, offering a simple yet delightful taste of the region.
- Mamtu: Steamed dumplings stuffed with meat and spices, similar to the famous Central Asian manti, are a must-try.
- Kalash Wine: Made from locally grown grapes, Kalash wine is a significant part of their cultural rituals and celebrations. Tasting it is almost like sipping a piece of their history.
- Buttermilk: A refreshing and nourishing drink, perfect for rehydrating after a trek through the valleys.
Travel Tips
- Best Time to Visit: Spring (April to May) and Autumn (September to October) offer the best weather and scenery.
- Preparation: Pack warm clothes even in summer, as nights can get chilly. Sturdy shoes are a must for exploring.
- Mobile Networks: Telenor is the only network provider operating in the Kalasha Valleys, so make sure to get a Telenor SIM card if you need phone signal or internet.
- Police Registration for Foreigners: New tourism policies have been implemented, allowing more freedom for foreign tourists to explore the Kalash Valleys without police escorts. You no longer have to register with the police in Chitral.
- Responsible Tourism: To preserve the beauty of the area and ensure positive tourism impact, stay in accommodations run by Kalasha people, ask before taking photos, enjoy local products, and drink responsibly. Hospitality is a cornerstone of Kalash culture. Visitors are welcomed with open arms and are often invited to share meals and participate in local festivities. This warm hospitality offers a unique opportunity for travelers to immerse themselves in Kalasha culture and to experience their way of life firsthand.
