Itinerary for Cambodia: What to Do, Where to Go, and How to Plan It Right

Cambodia is a country that defies expectations. What you’ll find here isn’t just ancient temples or tragic history – it’s kindness, resilience, and moments that stay with you long after you’ve left.

This is a nation still grieving its trauma, yet greeting you with warmth and grace. And still, many first-time travelers hesitate to visit.

Before I arrived in Cambodia, I’d heard all the usual concerns: It’s unsafe. It’s chaotic. It’s too intense. But after spending two months living and working in Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, and the islands, I realized most of those assumptions are either outdated or missing the full picture.

This guide is designed for first-time visitors planning a 7 to 14-day trip. 

Whether you’re choosing between Phnom Penh and the islands, figuring out how many days to spend at Angkor Wat, or wondering if the tap water will destroy your stomach (spoiler: it won’t), you’ll find answers here.

But this isn’t just a logistics post. You’ll also find reflections on Cambodia’s past, ethical tips for responsible travel, and honest thoughts on how this country can break your heart and then somehow piece it back together.

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Before You Go: Visas, Safety, and Staying Connected

Before you dive into temple-hopping or beach-lounging, it’s worth getting a few practicalities sorted, especially if you’re traveling on a non-Western passport, or plan to stay longer than 30 days. 

Visa Tips (especially for weaker passports)

Most nationalities can get a 30-day visa on arrival, or apply in advance via Cambodia’s official e-visa site. If you’re planning to stay longer, you’ll need to visit the immigration office in person, conveniently located just outside Siem Reap near the airport (map here).

There’s no appointment system – just show up and take a number. For many travelers, the extension process is easy. But if you’re traveling on a passport like mine (Pakistani), prepare for some confusion. I spent 7 hours in the immigration office trying to explain why I wanted to stay longer. The lack of a stable job and the “why are you still here?” attitude meant a lot of waiting, questions, and uncertainty. Eventually, I did get my extension. 

It takes around a week and you have to return to the office to pick it up.

Getting Around Cambodia

For long distances, Cambodia’s bus network is surprisingly efficient, especially when booked through 12Go. From Siem Reap to Phnom Penh, or Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville, a well-timed bus can save you the cost and stress of airport transfers. Domestic flights are available but often unnecessary unless you’re very short on time.

Within cities, Grab (the Uber of Southeast Asia) is a game changer. Instead of negotiating prices with tuk tuk drivers, you can book one through the app, track your ride, and pay a fair price. It’s fast, cheap, and generally safer if you’re traveling solo or at night.

Money, SIM Cards & Safety

Currency: Both USD and Cambodian Riel are used interchangeably. You can pay for most things in dollars – even street food – but you’ll often get change in Riel. For small purchases, local currency gives you slightly better value.

ATMs are common in cities and tourist towns. Many charge a small fee, and not all accept international cards, so carry some emergency cash. Credit cards work in nicer restaurants and hotels, but don’t count on them for day-to-day use.

Sim card: I highly recommend using Airalo – especially if you’re arriving late or want data the second you land. It’s an affordable eSIM that lets you skip the airport SIM card hunt.

And finally: Cambodia felt pretty safe when we traveled. The country has been through a lot, but that hasn’t hardened its people. If anything, it’s made them more generous.

How to Spend 10 Days in Cambodia (With Flexibility for 7-14 Days)

Cambodia is best experienced through a mix of city life, ancient history, and coastal escape. If you’re here for anywhere between 7 to 14 days, the ideal way to structure your time is around three main destinations: Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, and one of the islands Koh Rong or Koh Rong Samloem.

Days 1–4: Siem Reap

Siem Reap is where most Cambodia trips begin, not just because it’s the gateway to Angkor Wat, but because the city itself blends history, food, and a surprisingly fun nightlife. If you only have time for one stop in Cambodia, make it this one.

Angkor Wat: Get the 3-Day Pass

Angkor Wat isn’t just another temple – it’s the largest religious monument in the world and Cambodia’s national symbol (you’ll even see it on the flag). Built in the 12th century, it started as a Hindu temple before becoming Buddhist, and today it’s both a spiritual site and an archaeological wonder. For most travelers, this is the highlight of their trip to Cambodia.

That’s why the 3-day Angkor Pass is the best choice, even if you’re not sure you’ll use all three days. The complex is vast (over 400 square kilometers), and trying to do it in one day feels rushed. Split your visits across two mornings to avoid the worst of the heat.

I recommend starting with a sunrise at Angkor Wat itself, then continuing to Bayon (famous for its serene stone faces) and Ta Prohm (the “Tomb Raider” temple, with massive tree roots wrapped around its walls). On your second day, wander into the quieter corners where you’ll often find yourself nearly alone, a rare and moving experience.

For transport, skip the car. A tuk tuk driver makes it easy and affordable to temple-hop at your own pace, or you can join a guided bike tour for a more immersive way to move between sites. for a different way to move between temples.

Phare Circus: Storytelling Through Survival

Phare is unlike any circus you’ve seen. It was created to help children heal after the Khmer Rouge through art, and that history shapes every performance. The show we saw told the story of a girl who lost her family and rebuilt her life through movement. It wasn’t polished like Cirque du Soleil, but it was raw, emotional, and unforgettable. You can book tickets here.

Horse Riding or Countryside Bike Tour

If you need a break from temples, trade stone ruins for rice fields. On a horse riding tour, I found myself trotting through golden paddies at sunset, past grazing water buffalo, in near silence. If horses aren’t your thing, the countryside bike tour is another way to see daily life in the villages beyond the city. Both give you a sense of Cambodia outside the Angkor circuit.

Floating Villages: Should You Go?

We skipped Tonle Sap’s floating villages – partly out of fatigue, partly out of worry it might feel intrusive. But many travelers find it meaningful if done with the right operator. This boat trip to Kompong Phluk offers a look at stilted houses, fisheries, and the realities of life on Cambodia’s largest lake. If you go, choose carefully – some tours are more exploitative than authentic.

Bonus: Day Trips If You Have Extra Time

If you’re staying longer, head to Preah Vihear and Koh Ker – remote temples with almost no crowds. Perched on a mountain with sweeping views, Preah Vihear feels worlds away from busy Angkor. This day tour is a good option if you don’t want to navigate it yourself.

Days 5–7: Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh is Cambodia’s capital, a city where glittering palaces and riverside cafés sit alongside some of the darkest chapters of human history. Many travelers breeze through, but if you want to understand Cambodia, spending a few days here is essential. I ended up living in Phnom Penh for a month, which gave me time to go beyond the usual sights and get a feel for daily life in the city.

How to Get from Siem Reap to Phnom Penh

The easiest way is by bus. We took a Giant Ibis bus, which was comfortable and reliable options. The trip takes around 6–7 hours, with one meal stop along the way. Tickets can be booked online through 12Go.

Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S21) & The Killing Fields

No Cambodia itinerary is complete without acknowledging its painful past. In Phnom Penh, that means visiting Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S21) and the Choeung Ek Killing Fields.

• S21 (link: tuolsleng.gov.kh) is a former high school turned prison during the Khmer Rouge regime. Admission is $5 USD, with an audio guide available for an extra fee.
• The Killing Fields are about 30 minutes by tuk tuk from the city center. Entry is $6 USD, including an excellent audio guide.

A lot of guides suggest doing S21 and the Killing Fields in a single day, but I wouldn’t. When I split them up, the visits felt more manageable. These sites are emotionally heavy, and giving yourself space to process makes the experience far more meaningful. 

If you can, start with S21 and then visit the Killing Fields on another day. That order mirrors the path taken by prisoners and gives you a chronological understanding of the Khmer Rouge’s brutality. Expect to spend 2+ hours at S21 and about 1.5 hours at Choeung Ek.

Walking through these sites was one of the most haunting travel experiences of my life. I’ve been to Auschwitz, which is heavily curated and carefully presented. In Cambodia, the history feels raw and unmediated. At the Killing Fields, you stand before a glass stupa filled with thousands of skulls. There’s no softening of the horror. If Auschwitz is about the industrial machinery of death, Cambodia is about its intimacy: neighbors killing neighbors, children turned into executioners.

The Khmer Rouge killed roughly 25% of the Cambodian population in just four years. That number is staggering, but what stays with you is the silence in those fields – and the resilience of the people you meet in the city afterward.

🎧 If you want more depth before or after visiting, I can’t recommend the podcast In the Shadows of Utopia enough (Spotify | Apple). It’s detailed, compassionate, and will give you the historical context most tours don’t.

Other Things to Do in Phnom Penh

• Royal Palace: A beautiful complex that gives you a glimpse of Cambodian architecture and Buddhist traditions. Entry is around $10 USD.
• Walk the Riverside: The stretch along the Tonlé Sap and Mekong Rivers is great for an evening stroll, with food stalls and people-watching.
• Night Markets: You’ll find everything from street food to souvenirs.
• Cafés & Co-Working: Phnom Penh has a surprisingly strong café culture. Brown Coffee and Java Creative Café are solid choices if you’re working remotely.

Days 8–10: Koh Rong Samloem (Island Time)

After days of temples and heavy history, Cambodia’s islands are the perfect place to unwind. Most travelers choose between Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem. The two are neighbors, just a short ferry apart, but they offer very different vibes:

• Koh Rong: Bigger, busier, backpacker nightlife, more accommodation options.
• Koh Rong Samloem: Smaller, quieter, slower pace, postcard beaches.

I chose Koh Rong Samloem for my birthday trip. Partly because I prefer to settle in one spot rather than hop around, and partly because I wanted peace over parties. Both islands are beautiful, but Samloem stole my heart.

How to Get from Phnom Penh to Koh Rong / Koh Rong Samloem

First, you’ll need to travel from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville, the mainland port for both islands. The bus ride takes 6–7 hours (again, GoAsia is the most reliable option). From Sihanoukville, you’ll take a ferry (45–60 minutes) to either island. Ferries run multiple times a day, and you can book in advance or buy tickets at the pier.

Tip: If you’re planning to split your time between both islands, you can book a shuttle boat between Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem. But if you prefer a slower pace, choose one island and settle in.

My Experience on Koh Rong Samloem

For me, Koh Rong Samloem was the definition of island escape. The water was so clear it felt unreal, honestly some of the best beaches I’ve seen anywhere in the world!

• I spent my birthday paddleboarding and swimming in calm turquoise water.
• At night, we swam with bioluminescent plankton – glowing sparks of light flickering in the water with every movement. The fact that our guide told us we could see them right outside our hotel (instead of paying for a tour) made it even more special.
• We took a day trip by boat to explore the other side of the island, which gave a glimpse of just how untouched parts of Samloem still are.

But as idyllic as it feels, the island also comes with a contrast that’s hard to ignore: many Cambodians will never be able to afford a holiday here. You’re swimming in paradise that’s inaccessible to the very people whose country you’re visiting. It’s a reminder of the privilege of being a visitor here.

On the way back, I stopped in Sihanoukville and got a tattoo but the city itself felt almost apocalyptic. Once a quiet beach town, it has been transformed by half-finished Chinese casinos, leaving entire streets deserted. A strange, ghost-town vibe that made me even more grateful for Koh Rong Samloem’s simplicity.

Tip: Ferry schedules depend on the weather, so plan a buffer day before your international flight home.

Where and What to Eat in Cambodia

Cambodian food doesn’t get the same international hype as Thai or Vietnamese, but it deserves your attention. It’s lighter, often coconut-based, and full of subtle flavors.

• Fish Amok: Cambodia’s national dish, a fragrant fish curry steamed in banana leaves. We had it at a survivor-run restaurant in Siem Reap (I’ll add the name later), and it was one of those meals that stays with you long after. Eating somewhere that directly supports locals makes it even more meaningful.
• Vegetarian & Vegan Options: Both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap have strong vegetarian scenes, with plant-based cafés catering to digital nomads and travelers.
• Curiosities: Fried insects are common in street markets: crickets, silkworms, even tarantulas. Most people try it for the photo, not the flavor. We did too. 
• Water Safety: Stick to bottled or filtered water..

Want a deeper dive? Consider a cooking class or food tour in Siem Reap. You’ll shop in the markets, cook with a local chef, and walk away knowing how to make your own amok. See options here.

Optional Add-Ons If You Have More Time

If you’ve got more than 10 days in Cambodia, here are some worthwhile detours:

• Kampot: A riverside town famous for its pepper farms. You can tour plantations and taste pepper straight from the source.
• Kep: Just a short ride from Kampot, known for fresh crab dishes by the sea.
• Battambang: Home to the quirky bamboo train and some beautiful countryside cycling.
• More time on the islands: Stay longer on Koh Rong or Samloem, or explore smaller spots like Koh Ta Kiev.
  

Quick Guide: How to Adapt This Itinerary

• Only 7 days? Skip Phnom Penh or the islands – don’t try to do it all.
• 2 weeks? Add Kampot, Kep, or just give yourself more days in Siem Reap to breathe.
• Working remotely? Base yourself in Phnom Penh’s BKK1 neighborhood or Siem Reap’s French Quarter. Both have excellent cafés, coworking spaces, and reliable Wi-Fi.
  

Cambodia, In My Notes

Cambodia was the last stop of my year of nomadic travel, which already gave it extra weight. By the time I arrived, I’d spent months moving through Southeast Asia but Cambodia was the biggest surprise. 

I spent over 30 hours listening to In the Shadows of Utopia, a podcast that dives deep into the Khmer Rouge era. Combined with what I saw at S21 and the Killing Fields, it meant I didn’t just pass through – I felt like I was walking inside the country’s story, with all its grief and resilience.

That mix of history, hospitality, and raw humanity is what makes Cambodia impossible to reduce to “just temples” or “just beaches.” It’s not polished or easy, but that’s why it stays with you.

If Cambodia is on your list, go. Go ready to learn, to listen, and to be surprised. You’ll leave with more than photographs.