Mestia to Ushguli Trek: A Complete Guide

Georgia had been on my travel radar for years, so when I finally decided to spend my first month as a nomad there, I knew I had to explore the Caucasus Mountains. After years in Europe, the pull of the continent’s tallest peaks was irresistible. The Mestia to Ushguli trek, winding through the Upper Svaneti region, promised not just stunning landscapes but also a deep dive into Georgia’s unique culture.

This four-day trek takes you through remote Svan villages, over rugged ridgelines, and into valleys that feel untouched by time. With snow-capped mountains, grassy slopes, and cascading glaciers, the scenery is nothing short of spectacular. The best part? You don’t need camping gear and can stay in welcoming guesthouses along the way. This guide is based on my own experience of the trek, offering practical tips and insights to help you navigate the journey.

See also: Your Perfect Itinerary for Tbilisi

Quick Facts 

• Trail type: A to B 
• Distance: 50 – 60 km 
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Max. elevation: 2719m
• Min. elevation: 1400m 
• Days: 3 or 4 days 
• What you can view along the way: Ushba (4,710m), Tetnuldi (4,858m), Shkhara (5,193m)
• Navigation: I followed the maps.me route and found it to be extremely reliable throughout the trek. 

• Money: There are no ATMs once you depart from Mestia so make sure to take adequate cash for the journey
• Accommodation: Camping options, as well as guest houses 
• Wifi/signal availability: You can expect to get decent coverage along the route

Trek Logistics

When to Go

The best time to trek from Mestia to Ushguli is between June and October. July and August offer the most stable weather, but they’re also the busiest months. I personally prefer mid-September, when the weather is still pleasant, and the crowds have thinned. I did the trek in early October, and it was perfect—quiet trails, stunning autumn colors, and just a few fellow hikers each day. However, be aware that snow can arrive unexpectedly by late October, so keep an eye on weather reports if you’re planning to go towards the end of the season.

How to Get to Mestia?

By Marshrutka:

• Zugdidi to Mestia: Daily marshrutkas depart late morning and afternoon. The morning one leaves around 10 am, while the afternoon marshrutka aligns with the train arrival from Tbilisi, departing at 14:30. The journey takes about 4 hours and costs 40 GEL. There is a noticeable bus station just by the train station.
• Tbilisi to Mestia: Direct marshrutkas leave at 7:00 and 8:00 am, taking 9-10 hours. The price is 40 GEL, but the trip is long and uncomfortable.
• Kutaisi to Mestia: A direct minibus departs from the bus station behind McDonald’s between 9:00 and 10:00 am. It costs 40 GEL, and arriving early ensures your spot. If missed, you may need to transfer via Zugdidi.

By Taxi:

• Shared Taxi from Zugdidi: Costs 300 GEL per car (70 GEL per person if full). It’s faster, taking about 3 hours.
• Private Taxi from Tbilisi or Kutaisi: Prices start at 550 GEL from Tbilisi and 340 GEL from Kutaisi airport if booked in advance.

By Train:

• Tbilisi to Zugdidi: The day train leaves at 8:20 am, arriving in Zugdidi at 14:21. Tickets start at 16 GEL, and marshrutkas to Mestia await at the station. There used to be an overnight train route to Zugdidi, but I am not sure if it’s still working. Tickets can be brought at railway.ge

By Plane:

• Tbilisi to Mestia: Vanilla Sky operates flights from Natakhtari Airport for 90 GEL. It’s a scenic option, but flights may be canceled due to weather, so book early.

How to leave Ushguli village?

Leaving Ushguli can be a bit tricky. Your best option is to catch a local taxi for about 40 GEL per person. While some minivans returning to Mestia may have empty seats, don’t rely on them—local drivers prefer to take hikers back themselves. If you want to save a bit, start walking towards Iprali and flag down a minivan once you’re out of Ushguli. From Mestia, catch a marshrutka back to Zugdidi, then continue to Tbilisi as you arrived. The bumpy, river-crossed road makes the 40 GEL fare feel well-earned.

DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE

Day 1: MESTIA – ZHABESHI

Distance 16.1km, ⬆763m and ⬇523m

Your first day begins in the charming town of Mestia. Start by following the main street until you reach the river—cross it, then turn left, marking the official start of the trek. From here, you’ll face a steady 500-meter uphill climb. The first section is along a dirt road, transitioning into a forest path and then across pastures. As you ascend, you’re treated to panoramic views of the Svan village and the iconic Mount Ushba.

Eventually, you’ll reach a meadow with a signpost directing you to a short but steep forest trail. This trail reconnects with the road, leading you to a vast meadow. Just beyond this meadow, you’ll find a breathtaking viewpoint offering stunning views of the Svaneti valley, dominated by Mt. Tetnuldi. This is the highest point of the day and a perfect spot to rest. With the toughest climb behind you, the remainder of the trail descends into the Zhabeshi valley.

The upper trail to Zhamushi: At one point, the trail diverges—take your pick between the regular route or the upper trail. The regular route descends along border tracks, passing through Zardlashi and Mushkeli villages before reaching Zhamushi, where it meets the upper trail.

The upper trail, while more scenic, is slightly trickier to navigate. It diverges left through a small forest, continues through meadows toward Lakhiri village, then descends to Zhamushi, rejoining the classic trail. From there, the path heads south toward the Mulkhura river, eventually leading to Chvabiani and Zhabeshi.

Where to stay in Zhabeshi: Zhabeshi offers plenty of accommodation options, as the village is well-prepared for hikers and skiers year-round. I stayed at Guest House Victor, and it was a highlight of my visit to the Svaneti region. The family was incredibly welcoming, and the meals they prepared was the most memorable of my entire trip. A hot water shower after a day of trekking was just the cherry on top. Highly recommended!

Day 2: ZHABESHI – ADISHI

Distance 10.6km , ⬆909m and ⬇527m

Day 2 is the most challenging in terms of both ascent and distance. The trail heads southeast, beginning with a climb through pastures and light forest. The primary route is well-marked and easy to follow, offering lovely views of the valley as you ascend. After about two hours of a steep climb, you’ll reach the Tetnuldi ski resort’s cable car line, well above its bottom station. From here, continue uphill along the road and ski lift track.

At around 2500 meters, about 20 minutes later, a marked trail (Hadiish) branches off to the southeast. This path takes you through open areas adorned with wildflowers before gradually descending into the forest. Just before crossing a stream, there’s a small bar where you can grab some refreshments. In less than an hour, you’ll arrive in Adishi, a village nestled below the slope and only visible at the last moment.

Upper trail to Adishi: If you have the energy, I highly recommend taking the upper route to Adishi. This alternative route starts at a higher elevation, about 200 meters above the classic route, near the exit station of the lowest cable car line, which operates in summer. The upper trail guides you through open grasslands at the base of Tetnuldi mountain, offering stunning views of the peak. It eventually turns southward and descends steeply into Adishi. While this route is more demanding on the knees due to the steep descent, it’s a great way to extend the day’s hike and enjoy some truly breathtaking scenery.

Where to stay in Adishi: Adishi was my favorite village during the trek. It is the most remote village of all the ones you will visit, a small, charming place with basic facilities, including a bar (though calling it a bar might be generous). I stayed at Guest House Caucasioni — nothing fancy, but it got the job done and added to the village’s rustic charm.

Day 3: ADISHI – IPRALI 

Distance 18.7km, ⬆860m and ⬇1069m

Day 3 from Adishi to Iprali is without a doubt the best hiking day and the highlight of the trek. One notable challenge on this leg is fording the Adishi river, which I was quite nervous about. I tackled this in early October when water levels were low, and although the water was freezing, it was easier than expected. During peak season, locals often wait at the crossing with horses to assist hikers, charging around 20 GEL per person.

The day begins by leaving Adishi, following the path east along the river towards the base of the Adishi glacier. After about an hour of walking, you’ll reach the Adishi river crossing. You can attempt to cross on your own by heading about 50 meters upstream, where the river branches out. Hiking poles and sandals are recommended for this. However, if you’re unsure or prefer to avoid the risk, taking a horse across is the safer option. Once across, the hiking path reappears.

A two-hour climb leads you to the Chkhunderi pass at 2655 meters, offering spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and the Adishi glacier. For an even more impressive vista, take a scenic detour along the ridge to the northeast, heading towards the glacier. A small hill at 2800 meters provides breathtaking views of both the glacier and Shkhara mountain. The detour itself is short, taking less than half an hour, though I lingered for much longer, savouring the stunning landscape.

From the Chkhunderi pass, the trail descends into the opposite valley. Turn right and follow the dirt trail alongside the Khaldechala river towards Iprali, which is mostly downhill and should take about two hours. Along the way, you’ll pass through the village of Khalde, a site with historical significance due to an anti-Russian uprising in 1875-76. Today, Khalde is home to just a few families and three guesthouses, offering a peaceful alternative to Adishi.

Where to stay in Iprali/Khalde: If you’re looking to stay in Iprali, Bagtii Guest House is a solid option. However, if you decide to break up the trek by staying in Khalde, I highly recommend the Century House of Larisa. This guesthouse is run by the sweetest lady, who showed immense kindness when we ran out of cash. Despite the basic facilities, her generosity and hearty breakfast made it a memorable stay.

Day 4: IPRALI – USHGULI

Distance 12.4km, ⬆677m and ⬇436m

The final leg of the Mestia to Ushguli trek is the shortest and most straightforward. While many trekkers opt to take the main road, which is accessible by vehicles and often crowded with day-trippers, I highly recommend the more peaceful forest trail for a truly serene experience.

Finding the trail can be a bit tricky. It starts just after crossing the bridge in Lalkhori. From there, continue to Davberi, a small settlement along the way. The trail winds past some houses and starts ascending higher along the slope. If you’re unsure of the path, locals are usually around and happy to help with directions. Once you find the trail, it’s relatively easy to follow and takes you through a picturesque valley, positioned at a higher elevation than the road below.

This forested path offers a tranquil and scenic walk, eventually rejoining the main road. For the final few kilometers, you’ll have no alternative but to follow the road into Ushguli.

For those looking for a more adventurous route, consider the alternative path via the Latpari Pass. Though it’s a longer and more challenging detour, the stunning 360° views from the Svaneti range make it worthwhile. Just keep in mind that this route will take the entire day, so plan to spend the night in Ushguli as you likely won’t make it in time to catch an afternoon taxi back to Mestia.

Once you arrive in Ushguli, take some time to explore the village. If you have an extra day, I strongly suggest staying overnight. The best views of Shkhara are usually in the morning, and you can use the extra time to explore the village or take a walk to the Shkhara glacier viewpoint. Alternatively, the Chubedishi viewpoint to the northeast offers equally stunning vistas.

Exploring Mestia and Ushguli

Aside from the spectacular trek itself, Mestia and Ushguli offer a wealth of cultural and historical attractions to explore. Mestia, the starting point of the trek, is a small mountain town that has preserved its ancient Svanetian architecture through the centuries. The town is dotted with stone watchtowers, some dating back to the 9th century, which were used to protect the inhabitants from invaders and natural disasters. There are plenty of cafes and accommodation options in Mestia to choose from.

Ushguli, the endpoint of the trek, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the highest permanently inhabited villages in Europe, located at an altitude of 2,200 meters. The village comprises four smaller hamlets, each with its own watchtower and church. The architecture in Ushguli is even more impressive than Mestia’s, with some structures dating back to the 12th century. Visitors can explore the village on foot or horseback, and enjoy stunning views of the surrounding peaks, including Mount Shkhara, the highest mountain in Georgia.

The region is home to the Svans, an ethnic group with a unique language and customs that have been preserved for centuries. The locals are friendly and hospitable, and travelers can experience their warm hospitality through homestays, where they can enjoy traditional Svanetian food and drink. Happy trekking! 

Overall Cost of the Trek

Here’s the total cost breakdown of the trek.

Transport: 

• Marshrutka from Zugdidi to Mestia: 30 GEL
• Marshrutka Ushguli to Mestia: 30 GEL 
• Marshrutka from Mestia to Zugdidi: 30 GEL

Accommodation: 20 GEL per night 
Food: 25-30GEL per person per meal
Horse for Adhishi river crossing (if you choose to take it): 20 GEL 
Beers/wine: 10 GEL per drink

FAQs