Argentina had been on my list for a while. The draw was Patagonia – sharp mountain peaks, icy lakes, and wide, open landscapes. But it was also my first time in South America, and I wanted more than just scenery. I wanted good food, city chaos, and enough time to actually settle into each place.
Originally, this trip was supposed to be a honeymoon. But we were remote working and had the flexibility to stay longer, so we ended up spending two months in Argentina. We flew between regions and stayed 2 weeks in each: Ushuaia, El Calafate, Mendoza, and Buenos Aires. That’s where I caught dengue and lost two weeks to fever and mosquito-induced regret.
Planning a trip to Argentina can feel overwhelming – there’s just so much to see. It’s a massive country, with wild landscapes, regional contrasts, and a long list of things to do.
This itinerary is a condensed version of our two-month journey, designed for travellers with two weeks to spare and looking to experience a mix of Patagonia’s outdoors, Mendoza’s wine country, and Buenos Aires’ culture and energy.
I’ve included practical tips, optional add-ons, and personal insights so you can plan something that works for your time, budget, and energy levels.
How to Use This Itinerary
This isn’t a jam-packed checklist or a race across the country. It’s a flexible, two-week route based on what I actually did – trimmed down to help you experience Argentina’s contrasts without burning out.
You’ll start in the south (Patagonia), move through the wine region, and end in Buenos Aires. Each section includes suggested stops, travel tips, personal insights, and optional add-ons if you have more time or a different travel style.
Every place in this itinerary can be adapted:
- Want more hiking? Extend your time in El Chaltén or add Bariloche.
- More food and wine? Stay longer in Mendoza or swap Patagonia for Salta and Cafayate.
- Short on time? Drop Mendoza and fly straight from El Calafate to Buenos Aires.
Use this itinerary as a foundation, then adjust it to fit your pace, your interests, and your energy levels. Argentina’s too big to “do it all,” and that’s exactly the point.
How Many Days Do You Need in Argentina?
I like to travel slow, so I suggest at least 3 days per destination to really soak it all in. Everyone travels differently, though, so feel free to tweak it and make it your own. It is a massive country, eighth-largest country in the world and the second-largest country in South America. So keep that in mind and try not to rush yourself through each destination, but pick and choose.
When to Visit Argentina
For this itinerary – Patagonia, Mendoza, and Buenos Aires – aim for November to March. It’s late spring to early fall in the Southern Hemisphere: warm weather, long days, and open trails.
- Patagonia (El Calafate, El Chaltén):
Best from Dec–Feb. Peak hiking season with the best weather, though still unpredictable. Some tours (like penguins) only run in summer. - Mendoza (Wine Country):
Best from Feb–April, during grape harvest. Hot days, cool nights, and good conditions for both wine tours and Aconcagua hikes. - Buenos Aires:
Ideal in spring (Sep–Nov) or fall (Mar–May). Summer is humid and mosquito-heavy – I got dengue in Feb. If visiting then, bring strong repellent.
Arriving in Argentina
Most international travelers will land at Ezeiza International Airport (EZE), about 45 minutes to an hour outside of central Buenos Aires. It’s chaotic, pricey for taxis, and confusing if it’s your first time – but manageable if you know what to expect.I recommend booking your first night in Palermo or Recoleta – both are well-connected, walkable, and full of cafés. Uber is available to get to your accommodation.
Week 1: Patagonia’s Wild South
(Ushuaia → El Calafate → El Chaltén)
This week is all about Patagonia – Argentina’s dramatic, wind-swept edge. You’ll start at the very bottom of the continent and work your way north through glaciers, mountains, and one of the best hiking regions in the world.
Days 1–3: Ushuaia
Ushuaia is often called the “End of the World,” and it’s not just a slogan. It’s the southernmost city on Earth, tucked between the Martial Mountains and the Beagle Channel, and just 1,000km from Antarctica. It’s part of Tierra del Fuego, an archipelago split between Argentina and Chile, with a long history of indigenous cultures, explorers, and exile colonies.
You’ll need to fly here from Buenos Aires – the flight takes about 3.5 hours, and it’s the easiest way to reach the far south. Ushuaia is also a launching point for Antarctica cruises, which means it’s more developed than you might expect: there are decent restaurants, supermarkets, hostels and boutique hotels, gear shops, and lots of tour agencies.
It’s still a small town (population ~80,000), and while the port area is touristy, the overall vibe is working-class with a frontier feel – misty hills, colorful corrugated houses, and the constant scent of the sea. It’s also cold and windy year-round. Even in summer (Dec–Feb), you’ll want a fleece, a rain jacket, and windproof layers.
We spent a full month here, but you can hit the best of it in three days if you plan well.
The Main Highlight: Tierra del Fuego National Park
Tierra del Fuego was the most memorable part of our time in Ushuaia. The landscapes here are raw and varied – forests of twisted lenga trees, peat bogs underfoot, rivers carving through valleys, and quiet bays opening to the Beagle Channel.
- It’s just 30 minutes from town, accessible by shuttle or taxi. If you have a rental car, even better – you’ll have more flexibility to explore less-trafficked areas.
- At the park entrance, you’ll find a small visitor center, some basic facilities, and trail maps. Entry is paid, and it’s worth every peso.
Hikes We Loved:
Even if you’re not into long hikes, just walking through the peaty wetlands, past beaver dams (yes, there are beavers here – imported by Canadians and now feral), and seeing wind-whipped lenga trees is an experience in itself.
What Else to Do
Penguin Tour to Isla Martillo
Yes, we did the penguin tour. You boat out across the Beagle Channel to Isla Martillo, where Magellanic and Gentoo penguins nest in the dunes and waddle past your boots. It’s an iconic experience, but I’ll be honest – they were a stinky little creatures. It’s also more of a passive experience compared to the national park. Still worth doing if you’ve never seen penguins in the wild.
My full guide to Ushuaia here includes viewpoints, cafes, a bakery we kept going back to, and small museums if the weather turns.
Where To Stay In Ushuaia
We stayed at Arakur Ushuaia, a hilltop hotel with huge windows facing the mountains. You can start hikes right from the back door and come home to a heated pool and cozy rooms. It felt remote, but it’s only 10 minutes from town. Plus they have a free shuttle to and back from town multiple times a day. It does fill up quick, so book in advance!
If you’re on a tighter budget, look for places near the main port area – you’ll be close to restaurants, grocery stores, and tour pickups. I recommend booking.com for the best hotel options.
Days 4–6: El Chaltén
You’ll fly into El Calafate Airport, the main gateway to southern Patagonia. It’s a small regional airport that runs efficiently. There are taxis waiting outside the terminal, and if you’re planning to head straight to El Chaltén (which I recommend), you can either rent a car or take a direct shuttle.
We based ourselves in El Calafate, but for hikers, staying in El Chaltén is a better bet. Here’s a deeper comparison between the two if you’re deciding where to base yourself.
Best Hikes in El Chaltén
The town is the trailhead. You can literally walk out of your guesthouse and be on a trail within minutes. These are two of the most iconic day hikes:
Where to Eat & Stay in El Chaltén
The town is small, but you’ll find good coffee, homemade pasta, and excellent beer. Don Guerra for pizza, La Cervecería for beer and sandwiches, and Fuegia Bistro for something more upscale.
There’s no shortage of charming, well-located stays in El Chaltén—from cozy hosterías to remote glamping domes with Fitz Roy views. Here are a few standouts:
Chaltén Camp | A true getaway. Stylish domes tucked into native forest just outside town, with mountain views, all meals included, and a cozy base for stargazing and hiking.
Cumbres Nevadas – Hostería Boutique | A warm and well-run boutique inn in central El Chaltén, with easy access to trailheads, restaurants, and everything in town.
Posada San Antonio | A relaxed stay with cozy rooms, mountain views, and a quiet location that’s still walkable to both town and nearby trails.
>>> Booking Tip: El Chaltén gets fully booked in peak season (Dec–Feb), so reserve your stay early especially if you want something atmospheric or remote.
Days 7: Day Trip to El Calafate
We drove from El Chaltén to El Calafate (about 3 hours), and having a car gave us way more flexibility – especially for beating the crowds at Perito Moreno Glacier. The route is fully paved and easy to drive. There’s almost nothing in between, so bring snacks and fill up on fuel before leaving.
If you’re not driving, buses run multiple times daily between El Chaltén and El Calafate. It’s a smooth, scenic ride-ideal if you’re skipping side trips.
If you’re renting a car, I recommend:
Discover Cars – A comparison site that pulls local and international rental agencies in one place. Great for snagging deals with transparent pricing.
Local Rent – Connects you directly with small, local providers-often cheaper and more flexible than the big brands.
🚗 Bonus: Renting makes sunrise or early glacier visits possible, before the big tour buses arrive.
The Perito Moreno Glacier
I didn’t expect to be blown away by Perito Moreno, but it completely exceeded expectations. It’s massive, jagged, and constantly shifting-watching chunks calve off into the water felt like witnessing a slow avalanche.
We did the boat tour, which brings you close to the glacier’s 70-meter ice wall. The thunderous cracking sounds as the ice falls are surreal. If you also need to get picked up for the tour, there are many options available. In hindsight, I wish we had done the one that included glacier trekking.
You can also walk the elevated boardwalks at Los Glaciares National Park for panoramic views from different angles. The park is well-maintained, with solid infrastructure, bathrooms, and cafés on site.
- Tip: Even in summer, it gets cold and windy here-bring layers.
- Timing: Most tours leave mid-morning and return by evening, but self-driving lets you arrive early and skip the crowds.
Optional Side Trip: Torres del Paine (Chile)
My partner took a day tour from El Calafate to Torres del Paine, which is technically doable with a very early start. It’s a long day but worth it for stunning Chilean landscapes-think glacial lakes, massive granite spires, and wildlife-rich steppe.
Tours usually include Lago Sarmiento, a classic viewpoint of the towers, and short hikes in the park. If this is on your list, double-check visa requirements – Chile requires visas for some nationalities, including Pakistani passports (which is why I had to skip it).
A Quick Aside – Your Tour Choices in Patagonia
Patagonia is tour-heavy, and figuring out which experiences are worth it can be overwhelming. Some travelers want remote hikes, others want wildlife or glaciers-and many tours cater to different interests and energy levels.
We’re more trail walkers than tour-takers, so we kept our experiences selective and skipped the packaged excursions unless they offered something we couldn’t do ourselves (like the penguins or the glacier boat ride). But if you’re interested in exploring more, here are some popular add-ons to consider:
- Mini-Trekking on Perito Moreno – Strap on crampons and walk on the glacier. Ideal for adventurous travelers.
- Torres del Paine Day Tour – Long but doable from El Calafate with organized transport.
- Horseback riding in Cerro Frias – Visit a Patagonian ranch for horseback riding and asado (Argentine BBQ).
Week 2: Wine, Food & the City
(Mendoza → Buenos Aires)
This week trades mountain air for Malbec, street life, and slow lunches under the sun. It’s a shift in pace—less hiking boots, more café corners and vineyard views. You’ll sip your way through Mendoza, then dive into the chaos (and charm) of Buenos Aires, where every neighborhood has its own story.
Days 8–10: Mendoza
After Patagonia’s windswept landscapes, Mendoza feels like a different country entirely. The climate is warm and dry, the pace slower, and the air scented with vines and dust. We flew in from El Calafate-another short and efficient domestic flight.
This is wine country, and if you’re here for even a couple of days, you’ll find yourself surrounded by rows of vines with the Andes looming in the background. We spent 2 weeks here, but three days is enough to sip, wander, and squeeze in a hike if you’re up for it.
Wine Tours: Uco Valley & Luján de Cuyo
Mendoza’s vineyards are spread across several valleys. You can tour by bike (not my top pick in the heat), hire a driver, or book a wine tour. We did the latter and were glad we did-everything was handled, and we could just focus on tasting.
- Uco Valley is more scenic, with sweeping mountain views and more boutique wineries.
- Luján de Cuyo is closer to the city and easier to reach for a half-day tour.
Expect generous pours, cellar tours, and often a paired lunch with a view.
Aconcagua: Day Hike to Confluencia
On one of our free days, we rented a car and drove out to Parque Provincial Aconcagua, home to the highest peak in the Americas. You don’t need to summit the mountain to enjoy it-there’s a well-marked trail to Confluencia Base Camp, a 3-4 hour round-trip hike that gives you incredible views of Aconcagua and the surrounding valley.
- Park entry requires a permit, which you can buy online or at the gate.
- Bring ID, water, and sun protection. It gets hot and dry quickly.
- The road is in good condition, but a car makes the timing easier. [affiliate]
👉 Read the full guide to the Confluencia hike here
Where to Eat & Stay in Mendoza
Mendoza city is flat and leafy, with wide streets, open-air cafes, and central plazas. We based ourselves near Plaza Independencia, which made it easy to walk to restaurants and markets.
- Where to eat: María Antonieta for brunch, Azafrán for fine dining, and El Palenque for classic parrilla.
- Where to stay: Central hotels work well if you want kitchen space. Boutique hotels near the vineyards are better if you’re here just to relax.
Days 11–14: Buenos Aires
After two weeks of glaciers, mountains, and vineyards, Buenos Aires hits differently. It’s bold, chaotic, charming and full of rhythm. From European architecture to street murals, melancholic tango to late-night steaks, the city pulses with contrast.
Things to Do
- Recoleta Cemetery – A labyrinth of tombs and statues where Eva Perón is buried. Feels more like an art gallery than a graveyard.
- San Telmo Market – Come hungry. Empanadas, antique stalls, and live music in a historic market hall.
- Free tango lessons – Many bars and cultural centers offer beginner classes. It’s worth going, even just to watch.
- Tigre Delta Day Trip – An easy train ride from the city. Boardwalks, boats, and riverside cafés make it a laid-back escape.
Dengue Warning
February is peak dengue season in Buenos Aires. I caught it – and I would not recommend. If you’re visiting in summer (Dec–Feb):
Bring a mosquito spray with DEET
Wear long sleeves in the evening
Keep windows closed, especially at dusk
Book accommodation with AC and screens
What to Eat
- Parrilla (BBQ) – Order bife de chorizo (sirloin), mollejas (sweetbreads), and provoleta (grilled cheese).
- Patagonian lamb – Slow-cooked over flame; earthy, tender, unforgettable.
- Dulce de leche everything – Alfajores, helado, straight off a spoon.
- Malbec – Deep, fruity, and cheaper than bottled water.
Where to Stay
We stayed in Palermo, and I’d recommend it again in a heartbeat. It’s leafy, relaxed, and full of restaurants, bakeries, bars, and concept stores. You can walk for hours and always stumble onto something interesting. Recoleta is a quieter alternative with more old-world charm, while San Telmo is better for those into vintage shops and street art.
Optional Day Trips
- San Antonio de Areco – A gaucho town with colonial charm. Horse rides and mate sipping by the river.
- La Plata – For architecture buffs, science museums, and one of the largest neo-Gothic cathedrals in South America.
Optional Add-Ons (For Longer Trips or Swaps)
If you have more time – or want to tweak this itinerary – these places are well worth considering:
Iguazú Falls | Massive, thundering, and mist-shrouded. One of the world’s most epic waterfalls, shared with Brazil and Paraguay.
– The Argentine side is more immersive (think trails and boat rides under the falls).
– Check visa requirements if you’re not from a visa-exempt country and want to cross over into the Brazil side.
– Base yourself in Puerto Iguazú for easy access.
Bariloche | Lakes, snowcapped peaks, and alpine vibes. Great for kayaking, the Circuito Chico drive, and chocolate shops. Better if you want a more mellow Patagonia experience.
Salta & Cafayate | Red-rock canyons, cactus-studded valleys, and white wine country. Best for road tripping through Andean landscapes and experiencing indigenous culture.
What to Know Before You Go
Getting Around: Flights vs. Buses vs Car
Argentina is enormous—like, really enormous. Unless you have months, fly between regions.
We flew this route:
Buenos Aires → Ushuaia → El Calafate → Mendoza → Buenos Aires
Airlines: Aerolíneas Argentinas and JetSmart
> Read the fine print on baggage – cheaper fares often exclude carry-ons.
> Flights are often delayed, so give yourself buffer time on connections.
Buses exist, but they’re long – think 15–20 hours between major stops. Great if you’re on a tighter budget or not in a rush, but not ideal for this kind of trip.
Car Rentals: We rented cars in two places, and both were worth it:
> El Calafate → El Chaltén – Smooth roads and flexible glacier timing.
> Mendoza – Driving made it easier to access Aconcagua and vineyard lunches on our own schedule.
Book through Discover Cars for the best value from global and local providers.
Or try Local Rent to book directly with small-scale operators—often cheaper and more personal.
Money Tips: The Blue Dollar Explained
There are two exchange rates in Argentina:
– The official rate (used by cards, banks, and ATMs)
– The blue dollar rate (informal, nearly double in value)
To get the blue rate:
– Bring crisp $100 USD bills
– Exchange in trusted cambio shops in Buenos Aires
– Don’t wait until El Calate or tourist towns – rates are worse, and old/small bills may be rejected
Western Union is another way to get pesos at blue dollar rates, but transfers can be slow and glitchy. We stuck to cash.
Other Essentials
- Plug types: Type C & I – bring a universal adapter
- Voltage: 220V – double-check your electronics
- Language: English isn’t widely spoken. Learn key Spanish phrases or use Google Translate offline mode.
- Safety: We felt safe overall. In big cities, be cautious with your phone and avoid empty streets late at night.
What to Keep in Mind Before You Go
Argentina is huge, and trying to cover everything in two weeks just isn’t realistic. The real win is picking a few places and going deeper. Build in rest days. Think about what you actually enjoy – food, hiking, city life, wine – and plan around that. This itinerary won’t show you every corner of the country, but it’ll give you contrast, a strong sense of place, and enough time to actually enjoy what you’re seeing.
