Argentine Patagonia dilemma: glaciers or mountains? That’s the real choice between El Calafate and El Chaltén. One is a laid-back base for exploring epic ice formations; the other is a rugged hiker’s paradise.
I spent two months in Argentina and picked El Calafate—mainly because accommodation was cheaper, and it seemed like a better base for remote work. But the moment I entered El Chaltén, I thought: F*ck, I picked the wrong place.
Don’t get me wrong—El Calafate is amazing. It’s got glaciers, cool day trips, and all the creature comforts you need. But El Chaltén is Patagonia in its rawest, most breathtaking form. If you want to be in the heart of the mountains, waking up to Fitz Roy towering over you, stepping straight onto epic hiking trails—El Chaltén is the place.
In this guide, I’ll break down everything: hiking, activities, costs, food, and overall vibe, so you can make the right choice.
1. Quick Overview: What’s the Difference?
| Feature | El Calafate | El Chaltén |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | Glaciers, day trips, laid-back stays | Hiking, outdoor adventure, remote escapes |
| Main attraction | Perito Moreno Glacier | Mount Fitz Roy & Laguna de los Tres |
| Vibe | Tourist-friendly, developed, chill | Small, rugged, all about the outdoors |
| Hiking | Some, but limited | Hiker’s paradise—tons of trails |
| Accommodation | More options, hotels & hostels | Mostly hostels, a few hotels |
| Food Scene | Decent—steakhouses, empanadas, cafés | Basic but growing—think hearty meals |
| Cost | Higher (glacier tours $$$) | Cheaper (free hikes, but pricier groceries) |
| Accessibility | Airport + buses | No airport, needs a bus from Calafate |
El Calafate and El Chaltén are two of Patagonia’s must-visit mountain towns, both sitting on the edge of Los Glaciares National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site. But despite their proximity, they offer completely different experiences.
El Calafate has grown from a quiet sheep-farming town into a major gateway for travelers exploring Patagonia’s glaciers. With around 20,000 residents, it feels more like a small city, with plenty of restaurants, hotels, shops, and even craft breweries. The town thrives on tourism, thanks to the world-famous Perito Moreno Glacier, which is just an hour away. El Chaltén, on the other hand, is Patagonia’s ultimate hiking hub. With just 1,600 residents, it’s a relatively young town—founded in 1985 purely to establish Argentina’s presence near the Chilean border. But today, it exists for one reason: hiking. The trails start right from town, leading to some of the most epic landscapes in Patagonia, like Laguna de los Tres and Laguna Torre. The vibe here is laid-back and adventurous—a town built by and for hikers.
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Getting There: Accessibility & Transport
How To Get To El Calafate
We flew into El Calafate from Ushuaia, after spending time down in the land of glaciers and penguins (you can check out all the best things we did there here). El Calafate has a small but well-connected airport (FTE) with regular flights from Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, and Bariloche. If you’re coming from elsewhere in Argentina, you’ll likely connect through Buenos Aires first.
Once you land, getting into town is quick and easy—El Calafate is just 21 km (13 miles) from the airport.
Taxi or Shuttle: Ves Patagonia shuttles and taxis are available outside the terminal.
Car Rental: All major rental companies operate here, but local agencies tend to be cheaper.
How To Get To El Chalén
To reach El Chaltén, you’ll fly into El Calafate Airport (FTE)—there’s no airport in El Chaltén itself. From there, you have two main options: bus or rental car.
By Car: The Best Way to Experience Patagonia
The 3-hour drive (214 km / 133 miles) to El Chaltén is one of Patagonia’s most scenic routes.
The Route:
- Drive north on Route 40, with vast steppe and snow-capped peaks stretching endlessly.
- After 100 km (62 miles), turn right onto Route 23 toward El Chaltén.
- The final 90-minute stretch is pure magic—Fitz Roy suddenly appears on the horizon like a freaking screensaver.
Pro Tip
By Bus: Direct Transfers from El Calafate Airport
Yes, you can take a direct bus from El Calafate Airport to El Chaltén—no need to stop in El Calafate first.
Bus Options:
- Chaltén Travel, Cal-Tur, Transportes Las Lengas
- Cost: $35–$40 USD one-way
- Time: ~3 hours
- Where to board: Right outside the airport terminal
- How to book: Online, at the airport counter, or through a travel agency
Buses drop you off in the center of El Chaltén, within walking distance of most accommodations. Super easy.
Going from El Calafate to El Chalten
If you don’t rent a car, buses run daily between El Calafate and El Chaltén.
- Operators: Chaltén Travel, Cal-Tur
- Cost: ~$35 USD each way
- Duration: ~3 hours
- Booking: Online, at the terminal, or through hotels/hostels
During the high season (December-March), book ahead as seats sell out fast!
The drive itself is absolute magic. Endless steppe, distant glaciers, and guanacos chilling on the roadside. Stop at Parador La Leona for coffee and cake before rolling into El Chaltén, where Fitz Roy suddenly dominates the horizon. That was the moment I knew—we should’ve stayed here instead.
Would I rent a car again? 100%. But if you’re only visiting El Chaltén, the bus works just fine.
The Vibe & Atmosphere: Which One Feels More “You”?
El Calafate: Laid-Back & Tourist-Friendly
El Calafate is bigger, more developed, and definitely more tourist-friendly than El Chaltén. It’s where people come to sightsee, not necessarily to sweat.
You’ll see a lot of families, older travelers, and big tour groups who are here for Perito Moreno Glacier and boat tours, not week-long treks through the mountains. The vibe is easygoing, with plenty of indoor attractions like the ice bar, museums, and cozy cafés—perfect for rainy days or non-hikers. There are a few bars, but no real nightlife—most people are in bed early, getting ready for their next tour.
As a long-term base, it worked out great. We had a comfortable apartment, a solid routine, and easy access to restaurants and supermarkets. I could go for a run by Lake Argentina in the mornings, work during the day, and still have time for an evening stroll by the water.
El Chaltén: The Wild, Rugged Adventure Hub
El Chaltén is wild, remote, and 100% about hiking. It’s the kind of place where everyone wears hiking boots, even to dinner. There’s no luxury, no frills—just mountains and adventure.
From the moment we rolled into town, it was obvious—this is Patagonia in its rawest form. The streets were lined with backpackers, hikers, and outdoor junkies, either just back from a trek or fueling up for the next one. The town itself is tiny, with gravel roads, rustic hostels, and just enough restaurants to keep you fed before your next hike.
No ATMs, bad Wi-Fi, and overpriced groceries? That’s just part of the deal. You’re not here for shopping or convenience—you’re here for some of the best hiking in the world.
If you can, experience both—but if you’re after pure Patagonia magic, El Chaltén wins.
Things to Do: What’s There Besides Hiking?
El Calafate Highlights
If you’re visiting El Calafate, let’s be real—you’re here for Perito Moreno Glacier. And trust me, it’s not overrated. I thought it might be, but watching giant slabs of ice crash into the water right in front of me was one of the most jaw-dropping things I’ve ever seen. The deep cracking sounds echoing across the valley, the slow-motion collapse of an icy blue tower, the wave that follows—it’s like watching a living, breathing glacier in action.
There are a few ways to experience Perito Moreno, and I highly recommend doing more than just standing on the viewing platforms.
- Perito Moreno Glacier Walkways + Boat Tour – The classic way to experience Perito Moreno—walk the viewing platforms and take a boat ride up close to the glacier’s towering ice walls.
- Go glacier trekking: Walk on the glacier itself with crampons and guides. It’s surreal. Expensive? Yes. Worth it? Absolutely.
- Best viewpoint: The walkways and balconies at the national park give unreal panoramic views, but bring layers—the wind here is brutal.
If you’ve got extra time, there’s more to El Calafate than just Perito Moreno:
✔ Estancia Cristina – A stunning ranch in the mountains, only accessible by boat. If you’re up for a mix of history, hiking, and Patagonian landscapes, this is an incredible experience..
✔ Cerro Frias – If you want to see Patagonia on horseback, this guided ride through Cerro Frias offers stunning views of the valley and Lake Argentino: Horseback riding in Cerro Frias
✔ Laguna Nimez Reserve – If you need a slow morning before heading out on adventures, this is a nice, peaceful walk right near town. Plus, if you’re into birdwatching, it’s a great spot.
✔ Glaciarium Museum & Ice Bar – A fun, informative stop if you’re interested in how glaciers form and why Patagonia is packed with them. Plus, you can sip a cocktail in an ice bar at -10°C. Because why not?
El Chaltén Highlights (Beyond Hiking!)
If you’re coming to El Chaltén and looking for “things to do,” I have bad news: you’re here to hike.
That’s it. That’s the whole experience. And if that’s exactly what you want, then this place is absolute paradise.
✔ Scenic Drives – The road into and out of town is stunning. If you have a rental car, just driving around and stopping at random viewpoints is worth it.
✔ Chorillo del Salto – A quick waterfall hike just outside of town. No effort required, perfect if your legs need a break.
✔ Craft Beer & Local Food – After hiking all day, you’ll want real food and cold drinks. La Vinería and La Cervecería are the best spots to unwind, meet other hikers, and swap trail stories.
✔ Rock Climbing & Adventure Sports – El Chaltén attracts climbers from all over the world. Even if you’re not climbing, it’s cool to see people scaling insane rock faces.
✔ Relax & Read – Grab a book and soak in the mountain views (because no Wi-Fi means no doomscrolling).
The Hiking Showdown: Who Wins?
El Chaltén: Patagonia’s Hiking Capital
El Chaltén is Patagonia’s undisputed hiking hub—the kind of place where you step out of your hostel and straight onto the trails. No park fees, no permits, no complicated logistics—just mountains, endless trails, and all the adventure you can handle.
I hiked Laguna de los Tres (the Fitz Roy hike), and honestly? It didn’t live up to the hype. It felt more like a checklist than a nature escape. The final climb is packed, and unless you start at dawn or camp overnight, you’re stuck in a human traffic jam. Beautiful? Yes. Overhyped? Also yes.
If you want a trail that’s just as scenic but less chaotic, Laguna Torre is a great alternative—stunning mountain views, a glacial lake, and way fewer people. For something more off-the-beaten-path, Loma del Pliegue Tumbado offers panoramic views of Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, and the entire valley—without the crowds.
Compared to hiking in other countries (like Pakistan, where everything takes extra planning), hiking in El Chaltén is ridiculously easy. Trails are well-marked, everything starts from town, and there’s no red tape. It’s as accessible as hiking gets.
El Calafate: Limited but Scenic
El Calafate isn’t really a hiking town. Sure, there are some short walks, but after experiencing El Chaltén, none of them felt worth the effort.
The Laguna Nimez Reserve offers a flat, easy nature walk, great for spotting birds but not exactly an adventure. Cerro Frias has some horseback riding and basic trails with nice views, but it’s nothing compared to the dramatic landscapes up north.
The one exception? Glacier trekking on Perito Moreno. It’s expensive, but you’re literally walking on a glacier. If you want something completely unique to Patagonia, this is it.
Other Incredible Hikes in Argentina:
If you’re looking for more epic hikes in Argentina beyond El Chaltén, here are two that blew me away:
🥾 Laguna del Caminante (Tierra del Fuego) – A remote and wild hike near Ushuaia, where you’ll likely have the trail all to yourself. No crowds, just untouched nature.
🥾 Confluencia Hike (Mendoza) – A lesser-known trek to Aconcagua base camp (the highest mountain in South America) with jaw-dropping Andean scenery, perfect if you’re looking for something different from Patagonia’s glacier-dominated landscapes.
Budget: Where Will Your Pesos Go Further?
Accommodation: El Chaltén Costs More
El Chaltén is significantly more expensive when it comes to accommodation. Limited availability + high demand = higher prices. If you’re visiting in peak season (December–March), expect to pay 50% more for a room in El Chaltén than in El Calafate.
| Type | El Calafate | El Chaltén |
|---|---|---|
| Cheapest dorm bed | ~$18 USD | ~$35 USD |
| Cheapest private room | ~$50 USD | ~$75 USD |
| Mid-range hotel | ~$190 USD | ~$200 USD |
| Luxury stay | ~$275 USD | $500+ USD (Patagonia Eco Domes) |
We found cheaper accommodation in El Calafate, which is why we picked it as a base for remote work. El Chaltén has fewer hotels and hostels, so prices are naturally higher. If you’re on a budget, book early or look for options outside the town center.
Activities: El Calafate Costs More
If you plan to do tours, El Calafate will drain your wallet fast. While El Chaltén’s best activities (hiking) are free, most excursions in El Calafate require a tour or park entry fees.
We spent way more money on activities in El Calafate than in El Chaltén, but honestly? Some of them were worth it. If you do one expensive tour, make it Perito Moreno Glacier. Watching massive ice towers collapse into the water was surreal, and walking on the glacier itself was unlike anything I’ve done before.
Food & Groceries: El Chaltén Is More Expensive
We ate out twice in El Chaltén and immediately noticed that restaurant prices were higher than in El Calafate. It wasn’t just a little more expensive—it was significantly more for the same type of meal. There are fewer restaurants, fewer delivery trucks, and fewer options overall.
Since we were staying in El Calafate long-term, we cooked most of our meals, which helped save money. But even when we ate out in El Calafate, it was cheaper than El Chaltén.
7. Food & Drinks: Where Will You Eat Better?
El Calafate has way more food options than El Chaltén. Whether you want cheap empanadas, a full steak dinner, or a chill café to hang out in, you’ll find it here. Plus, prices are significantly lower than in El Chaltén.
Some standout places:
✔ La Tablita – One of the best steakhouses in town. If you’re going to splurge on a Patagonian lamb dinner, this is the place.
✔ Pura Vida – Cozy, homey, and great Argentinian comfort food (try the shepherd’s pie!).
✔ Don Pichón – Lamb with a view—this place sits on a hill overlooking the town.
✔ Shackleton Lounge – A cool little bar for craft cocktails if you want a break from all the steak and Malbec.
El Calafate is also a much easier place to self-cater. Supermarkets are bigger, better stocked, and cheaper than in El Chaltén, making it a great spot to load up on groceries before heading north.
El Chaltén isn’t known for its food scene, but after a long hike, anything tastes good. The restaurants here are practical rather than exciting—lots of big portions, carb-heavy meals, and places designed for hungry hikers.
✔ Maffia – Surprisingly good homemade pasta (the best meal we had here).
✔ La Vinería – A casual wine bar with a solid selection of local wines. Great for an après-hike drink.
✔ La Cervecería – The classic post-hike beer spot. Feels like half the town is here every night.
✔ B&B Burgers – Sometimes, you just need a massive burger and fries.
Conclusion: Which Patagonia Town Should You Choose?
If you’re torn between El Calafate and El Chaltén, it all comes down to what kind of experience you’re after. For glaciers, boat tours, and a more comfortable base, El Calafate is the way to go. Perito Moreno Glacier is the highlight, and the town has more variety in accommodations, food, and activities. If you’re craving epic hikes and a raw Patagonia experience, then El Chaltén is your spot. It’s a town built for adventure, with mountains and trails right outside your door.
Still undecided? If you have at least five days, do both. Spend 2-3 days in El Calafate for the glaciers, then head to El Chaltén for 3-4 days of hiking—the perfect combo for a true Patagonia adventure. And if Patagonia is just one stop on your trip, check out my Argentina itinerary—packed with tips on where to go and what to see.
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