Nicaragua Itinerary: How I Spent a Month Between Beaches, Volcanoes, and ‘Is It Safe

When people ask me why I went to Nicaragua, I tell them the truth: I Googled “cheapest country in Central America.” I had a US visit visa, a tight budget, and zero desire to spend $9 on an açai bowl in Costa Rica. Nicaragua popped up with $1 mangoes, active volcanoes, and surprisingly few people talking about it — so I booked a flight with no expectations.

And that might be why I loved it so much.

No one tells you that Nicaragua has beaches you can have to yourself. Or that the volcanoes are steep, fiery, and a little bit terrifying. Or that you can end up on a lake island with no ATM.

I ended up spending a month slow-traveling across the country, bouncing between crumbling colonial cities and remote beaches, working a little, sweating a lot, and falling hard for a place that didn’t make me feel like a tourist with a checklist.

This itinerary is for the slowpokes, the budget nomads, the solo-ish travelers who’d rather eat street food on a curb than sign up for Sunday Funday. It’s the path I took, with stories, warnings, and the occasional “don’t do what I did” sprinkled in. But first —

Everyone Said I’d Die. I Mostly Just Ate Mangoes

Before I went to Nicaragua, a friend sent me a link to a US State Department warning. “Nicaragua is not safe to travel due to political unrest,” it read. 

Spoiler: I was fine. Extremely fine. Kind of sweaty, a little sunburned, but not once did I feel unsafe.
Yes, Nicaragua had major protests in 2018. And yes, the government is… let’s just say not a fan of dissent. But for travelers, things have stabilized in recent years. Most of the unrest isn’t visible in daily life, especially if you’re sticking to places like Granada, León, Ometepe, and San Juan del Sur. The biggest safety threat I encountered was my shitty ATM driving skills. 

That said, one piece of advice I heard again and again from locals: don’t talk about politics. Even if you’re just asking questions, it can make people deeply uncomfortable. Nicaragua is not a place for spirited café debates. Talk about the weather. Talk about the food. Talk about how your legs still hurt from that damn volcano hike. Just… don’t talk about Daniel Ortega.

Is Nicaragua Safe for Solo Female Travel?

I wasn’t traveling alone — my partner and I were on the road together — but even so, safety was something I thought about, especially before we arrived. And honestly, once we landed, those concerns mostly faded.

We took the usual precautions: kept our phones tucked away on buses, booked trusted taxis, avoided walking through empty streets at night, and used common sense. The vibe in most places — especially once you’re outside Managua — was easygoing and welcoming. Locals were helpful, curious, and kind, even when we were fumbling through conversations in broken Spanish.

Of course, every experience is different. But if you’re a woman or femme-presenting traveler worried about traveling in Nicaragua — whether solo or partnered — my experience was this: less street harassment than I’ve faced in parts of South Asia, and more genuine warmth than I expected.

It didn’t feel like a country on the brink. It felt like a place where people were trying to live quietly, ride out the political weirdness, and get on with life.

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Best Time to Travel to Nicaragua

Nicaragua’s climate is generally warm and tropical, with distinct dry and wet seasons. The best time to visit depends on your preference. The dry season (November to April) is perfect for exploring, as the weather is pleasant, and you’ll experience less rain. High season tends to bring more tourists, meaning higher prices and busier attractions. However, I went in April, and it was a sweet spot—right before the rains, but with fewer crowds and better prices. The rainy season is May to October, but it’s also when you’ll find the best deals and a more relaxed vibe.

2 Weeks in Nicaragua: The Perfect Itinerary

I spent about a month exploring Nicaragua, and it was the perfect place for slow travel. This itinerary starts from the south, as we crossed in from San Jose in Costa Rica, but even if you’re flying into Managua, you can easily follow it. Nicaragua is small enough that you can shuffle the order of stops to suit your route. Everything is within a reasonable drive, so don’t worry too much about logistics.

I’ve kept at least three days in each city because, honestly, gone are the days when I’d rush through a trip just to check things off an imaginary bucket list. Whether you start with the beaches of San Juan del Sur, the volcanic adventures on Ometepe Island, or the colonial beauty of Granada and León, this Nicaragua travel itinerary gives you plenty of time to soak in each destination. It’s flexible, relaxed, and perfect for those who want to travel at their own pace.

Day 1-4: San Juan del Sur

We stayed about a 20-minute walk from the beach — far enough that we weren’t surrounded by tourists, close enough to wander over barefoot in the afternoons. At first glance, San Juan del Sur felt small. Dusty streets, a sleepy main drag, a splash of beachy party energy. I wasn’t sold.
But then the rhythm kicked in.
Most days started with a walk to the store (there are two solid supermarkets and a few produce stalls), cooking meals at home, and beach walks in the evening. It’s the kind of place that quietly pulls you in — not with big events or shiny attractions, but with space. Space to slow down. Space to live a little.

Things to Do in San Juan del Sur

San Juan del Sur has plenty to offer, whether you’re looking for adventure or relaxation. Spend your days hopping between beautiful beaches, where you can enjoy the sand and sea without the crowds. If you’re feeling active, horseback riding along the beach is a unique way to explore the area, or you can hike up to the statue of Cristo de la Misericordia for breathtaking views over the town and coastline.

San Juan del Sur has plenty to offer, whether you’re looking for adventure or relaxation. Spend your days hopping between beautiful beaches, where you can enjoy the sand and sea without the crowds. If you’re feeling active, horseback riding along the beach is a unique way to explore the area, or you can hike up to the statue of Cristo de la Misericordia for breathtaking views over the town and coastline.

The best beach for sunset were Playa Marsella and Playa Lorenzo, wanted to gatekeep this because there were no other tourists there when I went, most people opting for Playa Maderas instead.

What to Skip

Unless you’re really in the mood for overpriced cocktails, aggressive flirtation, and sweating your way through four bars in one afternoon, skip Sunday Funday. It’s marketed as Nicaragua’s “best party” — it’s really just a bar crawl with a rebrand. If that’s your thing, great. If not, trust me: there are better ways to spend a Sunday.

Where to Stay

Apartments are more common than hotels here, which worked perfectly for us. Airbnb had plenty of affordable, low-frills places with kitchens and decent Wi-Fi — just check recent reviews, because power cuts and water outages do happen (we had both).

The Wi-Fi was surprisingly usable for work — good enough for calls and writing, though maybe not for heavy uploads. A few cafés in town had coworking-lite vibes (check out Ding Repair Café and Simon Says), but truthfully, San Juan is more hammock than hustle.

If you’re staying longer, look for a spot outside of town, up the hill or closer to Playa Remanso or Marsella. They’re quieter, and you’ll get more space for your money. Just factor in transport — tuk-tuks and moto-taxis are common but not always cheap if you’re far out. Some long-term travelers rent motorbikes or ATVs.

Getting In and Out

San Juan is close to the Costa Rica border, so it’s an easy first or last stop if you’re crossing overland. We came in from San José and used the Tica Bus to Rivas, then grabbed a taxi to San Juan (negotiate hard — they’ll quote tourist rates first).Buses between Rivas and San Juan del Sur run regularly, cost under $2, and are your best bet for onward travel unless you’re using private shuttles. If you’re headed to Ometepe, you’ll need to get back to Rivas, then to San Jorge Port for the ferry.

Day 5-7: Isla de Ometepe

Ometepe Island is a must-visit destination in Lake Nicaragua, the largest lake in Central America. You’ll reach the island by ferry from the ferry port at San Jorge, and spending a couple of nights here will give you plenty of time to explore its stunning landscapes, which are dominated by two volcanoes.

Things to Do in Ometepe Island

Ometepe is a dream for adventurers and nature lovers alike. You can hike up Volcán Concepción for a challenging trek with stunning views or opt for the slightly easier Volcán Maderas if you prefer a bit more greenery along the way. For something less intense, Ometepe has beautiful natural reserves and beaches, perfect for a laid-back day of exploring or kayaking on Lake Nicaragua. Don’t miss the Ojo de Agua—a natural spring where you can relax and cool off after a hike.

I’ve written a whole post on things to do in Ometepe where you can find all my recommendations.

What to Skip

While Ometepe has plenty of unique experiences, not every activity is worth your time. The butterfly farm, though mentioned in many guides, is underwhelming and overpriced. Additionally, tours of the petroglyphs can feel a bit repetitive, and you’re better off spending your time hiking or enjoying the island’s natural reserves.

Where to Stay

Where you stay in Ometepe really depends on what kind of island vibe you are after. The most popular spots are Moyogalpa and Balgüe. If you’re looking to stay near the action with easy access to restaurants, the ferry port, and tour operators, Moyogalpa is a great choice. It’s perfect for budget travelers who want a convenient location without sacrificing comfort. On the other hand, if you’re after a more secluded, peaceful experience surrounded by nature, Balgüe is ideal. It offers a tranquil vibe with slightly more upscale eco-lodges, perfect for unwinding after a day of exploring, but still comes at an affordable price.

Day 8-10: Exploring León

We hadn’t originally planned to visit León, but when our Airbnb host offered us a ride, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity. I had only wanted to visit for the famous volcano boarding, but León ended up surprising me with its vibrant culture and rich history.

Things to Do in León

León is packed with history and culture. You can explore the Museum of the Revolution for a deeper understanding of Nicaragua’s past, or visit the stunning León Cathedral, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The nightlife here is surprisingly lively, with plenty of bars and local hangouts where you can mingle with fellow travelers and locals. And of course, don’t miss volcano boarding down the black slopes of Cerro Negro—it’s a once-in-a-lifetime thrill!

What to Skip

Skip the central market tours. It’s tempting to join one, but honestly, the market is easy to explore on your own, and the tours tend to be rushed and overpriced. I also found the chicken bus “tours” to be a bit gimmicky. They market it as an authentic Nicaraguan experience, but you’re better off just hopping on a chicken bus by yourself to see the real deal!

Where to Stay

In León, you’ll find a mix of budget-friendly stays and more luxurious options. For backpackers, Palacia Real Hostel is a great budget spot, while Hotel Neru con Encanta offers a more upscale experience for those looking to splurge a bit.

Day 11-14: Granada

Granada is one of Nicaragua’s most picturesque cities, full of colorful colonial architecture and cobblestone streets. It’s the perfect spot to slow down, enjoy a café in the plaza, or take a boat tour around Las Isletas.

Things to Do in Granada

Wandering through the colonial city’s old town is an absolute must. You’ll find beautiful architecture around every corner, with highlights like the Iglesia de la Merced offering stunning views from its bell tower. A boat tour around Las Isletas is also a popular choice, taking you through the small islands scattered around Lake Nicaragua. Don’t forget to visit the lively local markets, where you can find everything from handmade crafts to fresh produce.

Not quite in Granada, but definitely go to Masaya Volcano, I wasn’t able to when I went because of lava activity, but you can see molten lava inside the crater of Laguna de Apoyo. Definitely a bucket-list item!

What to Skip

Avoid the horse-drawn carriage rides. They’re pitched as a charming way to see the city, but the horses often look underfed and overworked, making it an uncomfortable experience. I also found the tourist restaurants in the main plaza to be overpriced and underwhelming. Instead, explore the side streets for hidden gems where locals eat.

Where to Stay

Granada has a range of accommodation options. I stayed at Museito De Carlos, and can’t recommend it enough. It’s run by the sweetest couple! Its a beautiful place to stay, a mini museum when you first walk in, a lovely garden and rooms with AC. What was even better, was that there was a different home cooked breakfast every day!

Other Great Stops to Consider

If you have more time to explore Nicaragua, a few other destinations are worth considering. Matagalpa is located in the highlands and is known for its coffee plantations. It’s an ideal spot for travelers looking to experience Nicaragua’s coffee region and take a break from the coastal heat.

For remote beaches and a more relaxed vibe, head to Little Corn Island. While it requires either a long journey or a flight, once you’re there, the snorkeling and peaceful island life make it a great escape.

Popoyo is the place to go if you’re into surfing. It’s a quieter spot compared to San Juan del Sur but offers equally good waves and a less crowded experience for surfers.

Some regions might sound tempting, but aren’t worth the detour unless you have extra time. The Caribbean side of Nicaragua, for instance, is harder to reach and doesn’t always offer the same level of activities or infrastructure as the Pacific coast. Stick to the main highlights unless you’ve got time to spare.

Travel Tips for Nicaragua

Currency and Budgeting Tips

Nicaragua is generally a budget-friendly destination. The local currency is the Nicaraguan córdoba, but U.S. dollars are widely accepted in most tourist areas. To avoid tourist traps, try to eat at local markets instead of fancy restaurants, where the food is often just as good, if not better, and at a fraction of the price. I found the best experiences came from asking locals where they eat.

Visa Requirements and Entry Info

For most nationalities, including U.S. and EU citizens, a 90-day tourist visa is granted upon arrival in Nicaragua. Just make sure your passport is valid for at least six months. If you’re entering from Costa Rica or Honduras, the overland crossings are fairly straightforward, though a small entry fee is required. Public transport is widely available—buses, taxis, and shuttles will take you nearly anywhere.

Air Conditioning

Air conditioning is not common in most areas, if that’s a preference for you make sure to add that filter in airbnb and booking.com when you are selecting your accommodation.

How to Get Around Nicaragua

Once you arrive in Nicaragua, getting around is pretty straightforward with plenty of options to suit different budgets. The most popular and budget-friendly way to travel is by bus. You’ll see plenty of colorful “chicken buses”—converted old American school buses—rolling through the cities and across the country. They’re an adventure in themselves, packed with locals and travelers alike, and will get you from point A to B for a bargain.

If you’re after a bit more comfort, shared shuttles offer a faster, but pricier, alternative for getting between popular spots like León, Granada, and San Juan del Sur. For island-hopping, such as heading to Ometepe, you’ll need to catch a ferry from San Jorge, which is an experience all on its own.

Budgeting for Nicaragua

Nicaragua is one of the most affordable countries in Central America. A night in a budget hostel will set you back about $10-15, while a decent meal at a local eatery could cost just a few dollars. Public transport, especially the chicken buses, is incredibly cheap, and even taxis can be affordable as long as you negotiate the fare beforehand.

To save money, stick to local restaurants—the food is great and a lot cheaper than tourist spots. Plus, don’t forget that many of Nicaragua’s best activities, like beach days and hiking, are completely free!

Frequently Asked Questions