While most people come to Ushuaia dreaming of Antarctic cruises and penguin selfies, I was a few thousand dollars short and already sunburned from southern Patagonia. What I needed wasn’t a luxury cabin or a captain’s dinner, it was a trail. Something raw, quiet, and reasonably free.
That’s how I ended up on the Laguna del Caminante hike.
This two-day trek through Tierra del Fuego is as remote as it is rewarding. Think glacier-fed valleys, boggy forests, wind-slapped mountain passes, and a campsite so peaceful I forgot I had a return flight. It’s not Ushuaia’s most famous trail but it might be its most satisfying one.
Here’s everything you need to know: where to start, what to pack, why the ice cave is worth the detour, and how not to sink into the mud on Day 2.
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Choosing Your Route: Andorra Valley or Cañadón de la Oveja?
The Laguna del Caminante trek can be done in either direction, but your experience will differ depending on which way you go. Here’s a breakdown of both options:
Option 1: Start in Andorra Valley, end in Cañadón de la Oveja
This direction is slightly more popular with locals, as it starts closer to town and ends further out. Here’s how to get to the trailhead:
- From Ushuaia, take National Route 3 north toward Río Grande.
- After about 4 km, turn left (north) onto a dirt road into Andorra Valley, a semi-residential area with farms, greenhouses, and scattered homes.
- Follow the road for another 4 km until it dead-ends at a metal gate marking private land. This is where the hike begins.
- GPS Coordinates: -54.764160, -68.300970
You can drive or take a taxi all the way to the trailhead gate. The road is unpaved but manageable in most vehicles.
While you could technically do this in reverse, keep in mind: ending in Cañadón means you’ll finish far from town, and getting a ride back can be tricky without arranging transport in advance.
Option 2: Start in Cañadón de la Oveja, end in Andorra Valley (Recommended)
This was the route I took, and I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
- From downtown Ushuaia, head southwest out of town and drive 30 km to the trailhead.
- GPS Coordinates: -54.823520, -68.392010
You’ll start with a steady climb through the Oveja Valley and knock out the hardest part—steep, exposed mountain passes—on Day 1. The second day is far easier, with no real ascents and a mostly downhill or flat walk out through Andorra.
This route also ends near a bar (yes, really) where you can grab a drink and ask the staff to call you a taxi back to Ushuaia.
A Note on Transport
There’s no public transport to either trailhead, so you’ll need to arrange a taxi drop-off. Drivers in Ushuaia are familiar with both start points, and you can pre-schedule a ride for pickup or drop-off.
What To Expect On The Laguna de Caminanta Hike
Difficulty: The trail is best suited for intermediate hikers, as it requires a good level of fitness but offers plenty of opportunities to rest.
Route type: A to B
Distance: 22km
Elevation gain: 1400m
The trek starts with a gentle ascent through the forests of the Oveja Valley. Initially, the path is relatively straightforward. As you ascend, you’ll be greeted by plenty of wildflowers, adding vibrant pops of color against the green valley floor. A calming start before the more demanding ascent begins.
As you advance through the valley, the trail leads to a glacier, an inviting introduction to the dramatic landscapes of Tierra del Fuego. The treeline from the glacier offers views of the surrounding peaks that characterize the region. This gradual ascent provides a glimpse of the rugged terrain that defines Patagonia.
As you move further into the valley, things start to get tougher. Steep rocky sections really push your limits, even if you’re an experienced hiker. The path winds to a pass between two snow-capped mountains. I personally found this to be the hardest section of the hike, the wind direction from the back testing your balance.
Just two hours before reaching Laguna del Caminante, you can detour to an ice cave—a must-see feature that showcases Tierra del Fuego’s glacial beauty. Positioned to the left of the main trail, this detour adds about 3 kilometers to your journey. Exploring this icy enclave offers a unique opportunity to witness the majestic glacial formations that adorn Tierra del Fuego, enhancing the trek with unforgettable views
Upon traversing the mountain pass, the views open up with more lush green surroundings – a stark difference from the landscape you have just crossed. From here begins the slow descent that leads to Laguna del Caminante, a tranquil haven surrounded by towering peaks. The lagoon appears suddenly, as if out of nowhere, offering up a quiet spot surrounded by mountains—a perfect little escape in the middle of Patagonia’s wild beauty.
There is an option to do the trek as a day hike which makes for a shorter trip, but I highly recommend to spread it over two days to fully appreciate the beauty of the surroundings. If you camp overnight by the lagoon, you’ll get to see some amazing sunrises and sunsets—trust me, it’s worth every second!
The second day of the hike is fairly simple, once you take the ascent back from the laguna, it transitions into a markedly different environment, with muddy and boggy sections weaving through dense forests. This part of the trail, while less physically demanding than the ascent, requires careful navigation to preserve the pristine condition of the surrounding ecosystem and ensure a safe passage through the less stable ground.
Logistics
When to go
The best times for the hike are from November through April, with conditions ranging from wind and mud to less frequent snow later in the season.
Permit
It is mandatory to register in advance in the Park’s trekking registry, you can do this online at the Park’s website.
Water on the trail
There is a stream next to the lagoon where you can refill your water bottles, I would recommend bringing sufficient water for 10km of hiking.
Laguna Del Caminante Campsite
On the shores of the lagoon is a rugged campsite, one of the four camping spots in Tierra del Fuego park and the only one that is not overcrowded so it makes for a peaceful stay to spend extra time in nature, and also helps break up the trek into two days so it’s not super rushed. If you don’t have camping equipment, it’s very easy and very affordable to rent it out in Ushuaia.
Phone signals
Communications from the Andorra valley and to the Cañadón de la Oveja are limited. The cell phone signal is received only at the beginning of the trail and a VHF radio only from some points.
Trail markers/signage
The trail is well marked throughout the hike.
Laguna del Caminante’s trail contrasts between challenging ascents and serene wilderness, perfectly capturing the wild spirit of Patagonia. Whether it’s the challenging ascents, the muddy forests, or the peaceful lagoon, this trek encapsulates the spirit of adventure that draws many to the wilds of Argentina. It was my first introduction to Patagonia, a region I would fall in love with over the next two months.
Other Hikes in Ushuaia (Tierra del Fuego)
If you’re looking for more adventure beyond Laguna del Caminante, Tierra del Fuego offers plenty of hiking trails that showcase the region’s diverse landscapes. Here are four hikes worth considering:
- Vinciguerra Glacier and Laguna de los Témpanos
Distance: 14 km round trip
Difficulty: Difficult
This trail takes you through lush forests before reaching the Vinciguerra Glacier. The final reward is the stunning Laguna de los Témpanos, a glacier-fed lagoon surrounded by ice. - Senda Costera (Coastal Path)
Distance: 8 km one way
Difficulty: Moderate
This coastal hike within Tierra del Fuego National Park offers breathtaking views of the Beagle Channel. It’s perfect for spotting seabirds and enjoying the region’s coastal beauty. - Cerro Guanaco
Distance: 8 km round trip
Difficulty: Strenuous
Known for its panoramic views, this hike is a tough ascent but rewards you with a stunning vista over the Beagle Channel and the surrounding peaks. - Laguna Esmeralda
Distance: 10 km round trip
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
A popular and relatively easy trail, Laguna Esmeralda leads you through forests and peat bogs to a stunning emerald-green lake. It’s a great option for those looking for a half-day hike.
