Antarctica was the dream. White continent, penguins in bow ties, icebergs you could lick (but shouldn’t). But unless you’re hoarding generational wealth or recently sold a startup, the price tag on that trip is, shall we say… suboptimal.

So we did what budget-savvy romantics do: picked the next best thing—Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the world, a moody little port town clinging to the edge of Argentina.

And it turned out to be one of the best travel decisions we made. Even if you’re not jumping on an Antarctic expedition, Ushuaia delivers: hikes, penguins, glaciers, seafood, and a whole lot of dramatic, end-of-the-map energy.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through all the best things to do in Ushuaia—based on two slow-traveling weeks on the edge of Argentina.

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1. Start in the Heart: Wandering Downtown Ushuaia

Downtown Ushuaia is compact, colorful, and easy to explore on foot. Think wooden shopfronts, puffin-themed street art, and lots of cafés serving medialunas (Argentine croissants). It’s a good place to settle into the pace of the city—especially with a coffee and pastry from one of the cozy spots on Avenida San Martín. I liked Ramos Generales, an old-timey café that looks like an antique store exploded in the best possible wa.

You’ll also find plenty of outdoor shops here, selling everything from crampons to fleece-lined socks or any camping gear you might need—especially helpful if, like us, you made a last-minute decision to sleep outside. And yes, there’s no shortage of penguin-themed souvenirs, if you’re into that.

A little context no one tells you: this used to be a town of 5,000 in the ’70s. Now it’s over 60,000 strong, thanks to tax breaks, tourism, and Argentina’s smart move to brand the end of the world as a destination. It booms in summer—December to February—when daylight lingers past 10 p.m. and the streets buzz with travelers prepping for Antarctica or just chasing that subpolar high.

2. Ride the End of the World Train

The Tren del Fin del Mundo sounds dramatic because it is. Once used to transport prisoners from Ushuaia’s jail to the forests they were forced to chop down (fun), it now carries tourists through scenic bits of Tierra del Fuego National Park, complete with a moody narration in your language of choice.

It’s a short ride—about 7 kilometers—but packed with history and views. You’ll pass the La Macarena Waterfall and the Cementerio de Árboles (Tree Cemetery), a field littered with the stumps of felled trees, a silent reminder of the prison’s labor legacy. Slightly eerie. Very photogenic.

You can board the train from a station just outside town—grab a taxi or book it with a tour. There are multiple classes, but the views are the same, so go with whatever fits your budget. After the ride, you can head straight into the national park or return to town. Either way: wear layers, it gets cold when the train slows down.

3. Hiking in Tierra del FuegoNational Park

About 20 minutes from Ushuaia, Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego is Argentina’s only coastal national park—and it feels like it. Dense lenga forests, snow-streaked peaks, and wide-open skies meet cold, silvery inlets where the Andes dissolve into the sea.

Entry fee: Foreigners pay around ARS 12,000 (~USD 12–14), cash or card accepted.
Getting there: No public buses, so book a half-day tour, rent a car, or take a taxi and arrange a return pickup.
Weather: It changes hourly. Don’t be fooled by sun in the morning—pack layers and waterproof gear.

Top Trails in Tierra del Fuego

1. Senda Costera (Coastal Path)
Distance: ~8 km (one-way)
Time: 3–4 hours
This is the classic route—and for good reason. You’ll trace the Beagle Channel, weaving through mossy forest, rocky beaches, and viewpoints that feel like you’ve wandered off into a nature documentary. The trail connects Ensenada Bay to Lapataia Bay, where the Pan-American Highway famously ends (yes, there’s a sign for your selfie needs).

2. Hito XXIV Trail
Distance: ~6 km (round-trip)
Time: 2–3 hours
A forested walk that leads to a quiet viewpoint overlooking Chile across the water. Bonus: You’ll literally hike to the Argentina–Chile border, but you don’t need a passport—just a snack and decent shoes.

3. Cerro Guanaco (For the Gluttons for Punishment)
Distance: ~12 km round-trip
Time: 5–6 hours
This one’s a leg-burner. The first half takes you through a wet, often muddy forest, and then the trail turns into a steep climb above the tree line. But if the weather holds, you’ll get one of the best panoramic views over Lake Roca, the Olivia Range, and the channel. If it doesn’t hold… well, you’ll have a good story.

Not Into Long Hikes?

You don’t have to trek to enjoy the park. Many short, flat trails near Lapataia Bay offer peaceful strolls through lenga forests, wooden boardwalks over marshes, and beaver dams (they’re invasive here, but weirdly fascinating). If you’re short on time, these are a great way to get a feel for the landscape without committing to a full-day affair.

A couple sitting in front of a lake with mountains in the distance at Tierra del Fuego National Park
Tierra del Fuego | The perfect place to spend the night

4. Camp Under the Stars in Tierra del Fuego

Camping in Tierra del Fuego is as beautiful as it is inconvenient—and I say that with love. There are four free campsites inside the park, the most accessible being Río Pipo and Laguna Verde. Both are basic (no showers, no shops, no signal), but you’ll fall asleep to glacier-fed rivers and wake up to lenga trees dripping with mist. Not a bad trade.

If you want something wilder, there’s Laguna del Caminante, a backcountry trek outside park boundaries that requires about six hours, good boots, and a tolerance for ankle-deep mud. The payoff is a mirror-like lagoon surrounded by peaks, and the kind of silence you don’t get near trailheads. Bring all your gear, pack out your trash, and expect every surface you own to get damp. No one said camping at the end of the world was glamorous.

Patagonia’s wilderness hits different, but if you’re looking for high-altitude trekking elsewhere in Argentina, Confluencia near Aconcagua is a great way to warm up to serious elevation.

5. Visit the Museums

If Ushuaia decides to trap you in a cold drizzle (it will), skip the soggy hikes and head indoors. This town does museums surprisingly well.

Start with the Museo Marítimo, set inside a former prison that once housed Argentina’s most notorious criminals. Think of it as Alcatraz’s more intense southern cousin. Built to “civilize” the far reaches of Argentina, the prison ran until the 1940s—its inmates sent here not just to serve time, but to help build the town itself. Cute.

The museum winds through cold, echoing corridors and preserved cells, each one telling a different story—shipwrecks, polar expeditions, tales of Tierra del Fuego’s Indigenous peoples, and yes, the occasional serial killer. Don’t skip the life-sized prisoner statues scattered throughout—equal parts creepy and photogenic.Right next door is the Museo del Fin del Mundo, smaller and more history-focused, with exhibits on early explorers and local wildlife. If you’re short on time or pesos, you could skip it—but I liked the antique maps and dusty dioramas enough to stick around.

6. Walk with Penguins on Martillo Island

Let’s set expectations: the penguins on Martillo Island are Magellanic penguins—the small, tuxedoed variety about the size of a large crow. Cute, absolutely. Majestic? Not exactly. And if you’re expecting the noble emperor penguins from BBC documentaries, you’re going to be… surprised.

I did a catamaran cruise that sailed past the island rather than landing on it. It was scenic, but for photography or penguin proximity, I’d probably recommend Piratour, the only company licensed to land and guide small groups on foot. That said, even from the boat, you’ll get a decent look at the colonies dotting the shore.One thing no one warns you about: the smell. I don’t know what I expected penguin colonies to smell like, but it wasn’t hot ammonia mixed with fish guts. Still, it’s not every day you get to sail through the Beagle Channel and spot hundreds of tiny penguins in their natural (if pungent) habitat. Just go in with realistic expectations—and maybe don’t stand downwind for too long.

Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse standing on a rocky islet in the Beagle Channel—an iconic sight and one of the top things to do in Ushuaia.
Magellanic penguins walking along the shore of Martillo Island near Ushuaia

7. Cruise the Beagle Channel

You don’t need to book a separate “Beagle Channel Cruise” to cruise the Beagle Channel. Most catamaran tours—especially the ones that go to Martillo Island—include it by default, which is how I ended up gliding through these legendary waters sandwiched between Argentina and Chile.

It’s an undeniably fun ride. You’ll pass seal-covered rocks where sea lions sunbathe like they pay rent, tiny islands dotted with birds, and mountains that roll out endlessly on both sides. The boat skirts the Chilean coastline in the distance, which makes it feel like you’re getting a two-country tour for the price of one.

Most routes also swing by Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, which gets falsely advertised as “the lighthouse at the end of the world”—a title it never asked for but definitely leaned into. Some cruises stop at Isla Bridges for a short walk with views over the channel and beyond.

On a clear day, this stretch of water is spectacular. On a windy day, it’s dramatic. Either way, it’s worth bundling up for—because few things make you feel as delightfully remote as floating at the edge of two nations and the bottom of the world.

8. Visit Estancia Harberton

If you’ve made it this far south, you might as well visit the first European settlement in Tierra del Fuego. Estancia Harberton was founded in 1886 by an English missionary named Thomas Bridges, best known for learning the Yahgan language and writing the first dictionary of it. The estancia is still run by his descendants, which makes it one of the few places in Argentina where “family-run” means “since the 1800s.”

It’s about 85 km from Ushuaia, and most people visit on a guided day tour that includes transport. The drive itself is beautiful—windswept hills, sheep, and the occasional guanaco if you’re lucky. Once there, you can tour the old buildings, explore the small marine mammal museum, and grab lunch overlooking the channel.

It’s not flashy, but it’s a worthwhile stop if you’re interested in the settler history of the region—and it pairs well with a Martillo Island penguin visit, since boats often depart from Harberton’s dock.

8. Eat your way through Ushuaia 

Ushuaia takes its seafood seriously—especially centolla (king crab), which shows up on menus across town in towering, gloriously messy portions. Pair it with mussels, grilled fish, or shrimp, and you’ve got the kind of meal that feels properly earned after a day out in the cold.

Some of my favorites:

And if you’ve got a sweet tooth, do yourself a favour: get something stuffed with dulce de leche. It’s Argentina’s unofficial national treasure.

Man enjoying a plate of grilled Patagonian lamb at a restaurant in Ushuaia
Couple sharing a meal at Keupe, a cozy bistro in Ushuaia known for its seafood and local flavors.

10. Hit the Slopes at Cerro Castor

If skiing at the world’s southernmost resort sounds like a travel flex, that’s because it is. Cerro Castor is about 30 minutes from Ushuaia and has a short but solid season running from late June to early October. The slopes are mostly gentle, the infrastructure is good, and you’re skiing through lenga forests with views of distant glaciers—what’s not to like?

I didn’t ski myself, but I did visit during snow season, and the vibe was lively in a Patagonia-meets-Après-Ski kind of way. You can rent gear on-site, and prices are cheaper than in Bariloche or Europe, though still not budget-budget. The resort is popular with locals and Brazilians escaping their tropical winters, so book ahead if you’re visiting in peak season.

If you don’t ski, the drive out alone is worth it—especially if you pair it with a snowshoe walk or mulled wine at the lodge café.

11. Hike to Martial Glacier

The trail to Glaciar Martial starts just a few kilometers outside Ushuaia and is one of the easiest half-day hikes to do without leaving the city. It’s a 6-km round-trip climb along a rocky trail, with sweeping views of Ushuaia, the Beagle Channel, and the surrounding mountains. When the sky is clear, it’s one of the best natural lookouts in the area.

The glacier itself is… modest. Don’t expect walls of ice or crampon-worthy adventures. Climate change hasn’t been kind, and these days it’s more like a patch of stubborn snow tucked into the peaks. But the trail is beautiful and well-marked, and the fact that you can start it in the morning and be back in time for a late lunch is a huge win.

If there’s snow, you can also rent skis or sleds at the base. And if there’s not, grab a coffee from the tea house at the trailhead—you’ve earned it either way.

12. Hike Through Lenga Forests

Lenga trees are everywhere around Ushuaia, but they really shine in Tierra del Fuego’s shoulder seasons. In autumn, they turn red and gold like someone went wild with a paintbrush; in spring, they drip with mist and moss. Hiking through these forests is pretty cool – twisted trunks, dripping branches, and the occasional squelch of your boot in the mud to remind you that yes, this is real.

You’ll find lenga on nearly every trail—especially Senda Costera and Lapataia Bay—but even short strolls from parking lots will get you that gnarled, atmospheric forest feel. Bring waterproof shoes. And maybe a bird app, if you’re into that kind of thing—the Magellanic woodpeckers are worth keeping an eye (and ear) out for.

13. Unwind at Arakur’s Spa

I landed in Ushuaia fresh off a flight from Pakistan, still running on wedding adrenaline and very little sleep. Jetlagged, overstimulated, and generally held together by bobby pins and airport coffee, I checked into Arakur—and for the first time in weeks, I exhaled.

Perched high above the city in a nature reserve, the hotel has panoramic views of Ushuaia, the Beagle Channel, and the snow-dusted mountains beyond. It’s all glass, stone, and warm wood interiors—the kind of place that makes you forget you ever had notifications. I spent three full days floating between hot tubs and napping under wool blankets with the curtains wide open. I’ve never felt more like I earned it.You don’t have to stay overnight—they offer spa day passes—but if you’re arriving from far away, I genuinely recommend booking a night or two to recover and reset. The beds are plush, the breakfast is absurdly good, and the silence is so complete it almost hums.

A woman sitting in the hottub area of Arakur Hotel Spa overlooking Ushuaia’s landscape.

14. Send a Postcard from the End of the World

There’s a tiny wooden post office on stilts in Tierra del Fuego National Park, right on the edge of the Beagle Channel. It claims to be the southernmost post office in the world, and it’s either delightfully kitschy or just the right amount of ridiculous, depending on your mood.

You can mail a postcard (expect delays), get your passport stamped, or just chat with the guy running it. It’s open seasonally and doesn’t always follow a schedule, so if you see it open, seize the moment. Also, bring cash.

15. Take a Helicopter Tour Over Ushuaia

If you’ve got the budget and a tolerance for mild terror, a helicopter ride over Ushuaia is as scenic as it gets. Flights are short—usually 30 to 45 minutes—but the perspective is unbeatable. You’ll see the jagged peaks surrounding the city, the full sprawl of the Beagle Channel, and, if you’re lucky, the light hitting the water just right to make it all feel surreal.

Some tours include a short mountain landing with champagne. I didn’t spring for that version, but if you’re already dropping serious pesos, why not go full Bond villain?

The highest rated helicopter tour over Ushuaia

16. Hike to Laguna Esmeralda

Laguna Esmeralda is one of the most popular hikes around Ushuaia—and it lives up to the hype. The trail is just under 9 km round trip and fairly flat, which makes it doable even if you’re not feeling especially athletic. The real draw is the lagoon itself: a turquoise bowl of glacial water framed by snow-capped peaks and lenga forest.

The path winds through peat bogs and can get seriously muddy, especially after rain. Wear waterproof shoes or embrace the squelch. No guide needed—it’s well-marked and busy in high season. Bring a snack, stay for a while, and brace for the temperature drop when you stop moving.

17. Catch Your Own King Crab in Puerto Almanza

About an hour outside Ushuaia is Puerto Almanza, a tiny fishing village along the coast where you can do something both delicious and slightly ridiculous: catch your own centolla (king crab), then eat it.

Several local outfits offer this tour-slash-lunch experience. First, you hop on a boat, help pull up traps (sometimes—you’re not exactly doing manual labor here), and then watch your catch get cleaned and cooked right there. It’s as fresh as it gets. Ours also included a short forest walk to a waterfall—just long enough to justify the second helping of crab.

It’s a fun, hands-on way to connect with the region’s food and fishing culture. And yes, it tastes better when you’ve “caught” it yourself.

Small sailboats docked in Ushuaia’s harbor with snow-capped mountains in the distance.

Final Tips Before You Go

When to Visit

November to April is the sweet spot—Patagonia’s version of spring, summer, and autumn all rolled into one unpredictable weather system. That’s when you’ll get the best shot at clear skies, long hiking days, and functioning trail access. Winter (June–September) is ski season, but unless you’re here for the slopes, you’ll be missing most of what makes Ushuaia worth the trip.

How Long to Stay

I spent two weeks in Ushuaia. You don’t need that long unless you’re slow-traveling, working remotely, or developing a deep personal relationship with centolla. For most travelers, 2–3 days is enough to hit the highlights. Add an extra day or two if you’re camping or doing longer hikes.

After Ushuaia, most travelers head north into Patagonia proper. If you’re torn between jagged peaks or massive glaciers, this breakdown of El Calafate and El Chaltén might help.

Where To Stay In Ushuaia

Ushuaia has something for every budget—just book early in summer, especially if penguin season overlaps with cruise season.

Luxury | Arakur Resort & Spa. Worth the splurge for the views, the spa, and the peace. I stayed here for five days, the hot tubs with the views alone are worth the price.

Mid-range | Southern Suits B8. Central, comfy, and within walking distance of pretty much everything.

Budget | Selknam. Friendly, simple, and great for travelers who’d rather spend on crab than bedding.

Money

Use cash in Argentina—it’ll save you a lot. If you’re coming via Buenos Aires, change your USD there to take advantage of the blue rate (the unofficial exchange rate that gets you nearly double the value). In Ushuaia, cambios are limited and rates are worse, which is true for most smaller cities. Don’t rely on your card—some places won’t take it, and others will just shrug when it fails.

Getting There

Ushuaia’s Malvinas Argentinas International Airport has direct flights from Buenos Aires (AEP and EZE), El Calafate, and sometimes Santiago, Chile. 

We flew in from Buenos Aires and out to El Calafate. Expect to pay $100–$250 USD one way, depending on the season and airline. The airport is small, the landing views are fantastic, and baggage claim is… casual.

Getting Around

If you’re staying at Arakur, they’ve got a free shuttle to and from the city every hour. Otherwise, taxis are easy to find and reasonably priced. We didn’t rent a car, and we didn’t need one. Most hikes and day trips include transfers, and the town itself is walkable if the wind isn’t trying to body-check you.

What I Tell My Friends About Ushuaia

If you’re already in Argentina and even remotely tempted, go. Ushuaia is far, yes—but it’s also wild, weird, and oddly rewarding. The kind of place where you’ll spend one day trudging through mud to a glacier and the next soaking in a rooftop hot tub wondering how you got here.

It’s not overhyped. It’s not overrun. It’s just far. But that’s part of the charm.

Bring layers. Bring cash. And bring a bit of patience for the weather, the prices, and the general “end of the road” chaos. It’s all worth it once you’re standing by the Beagle Channel, wind in your face, thinking: yeah, this feels like the edge of something.And if you’re figuring out where to head next, here’s the full route I took through Argentina—Ushuaia included.

Transportation

Consider renting a car or using taxis for flexibility in getting around the city. Uber is available in the city, but turns out to be almost the same price as taxis.

Wrap Up: Discover the Magic of Ushuaia

Ushuaia, the world’s southernmost city, offers a unique blend of rugged wilderness and unforgettable experiences. Whether you’re hiking in Tierra del Fuego, walking among penguins, or savoring Patagonian cuisine, Ushuaia truly delivers something for every traveler. From exploring downtown to taking a Beagle Channel Cruise, this city at the end of the world is well worth the visit. If you’re ready to plan your trip to Argentina, check out my Complete Itinerary for Argentina to create an unforgettable journey through this incredible country.